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2008 m1000 problems

J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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Troy, MT
today was my first day on the sled, after riding it for awhile, making a few good pulls, then turn the sled off for about 5 minutes, it didn't want to start. pulled and pulled and pulled, nothing. let it sit for about a minute, started right up.? road for almost the rest of the day, then turn it off, backfire, then no start. let it sit for a minute, started right back up? went to unload it at home, starts up, idle for a minute, then dies....then wont start...then let it sit again, then it started back up.

My first AC, and i have no clue how to work on them, so no idea where to even start. Any help would be much appreciated.

Jayson
 
J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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Troy, MT
skinz mesh hood, sidevents, ice scratchers, shorty seat. that is all i know.

So what happens when it throws a code? does it just start flashing on the screen or what? is there a way to bring up the codes??


thanks, jayson
 
J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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Troy, MT
also, when i put it in reverse, the screen had CCU on the screen with a little wrench by it...would that have anything to do with my problem? But it only does it some times????


jayson
 

WyoBoy1000

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The wrench should flash, count the flashes. Usually it will flash ,(just as a example) say 2 times then pause then flash 7 times. Thats a 2-7 code. then look under the hood and above the shock there should be a label that will tell you what the code means.

I would bet its the pipe temp sensor.
 
J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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The wrench should flash, count the flashes. Usually it will flash ,(just as a example) say 2 times then pause then flash 7 times. Thats a 2-7 code. then look under the hood and above the shock there should be a label that will tell you what the code means.

I would bet its the pipe temp sensor.

so you think the pipe temp sensor would cause all these issues?
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
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Lewiston, Idaho
Jason before you start throwing parts at the sled you need to check for electrical shorts. These sleds can act really weird if there is a short anywhere in the system. Its very common for the 1000 to have shorts because it vibrates so much and any wires that don't have loom over them rub on the tunnel and bulkhead and eventually the insulation rubs off of the wires and they start grounding to the chassis. As far as working on these sleds they are pretty simple to work on. If I were you I would strip it down and check everything out. Check you spark plug wires too, if the previous owner didn't put wire loom over them they are probably worn through or getting close. How many miles are on the sled?

If you have more questions shoot me a pm.
 

03rmking

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pipe sensors do some pretty weird stuff, so yes it could. But if you are getting the wrench code you need to figure it out first. Go count the flashes and let us know what they are.

Also if you need a pipe sensor read this. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255092


Doesn't the system always just list the actual code, like "23", not wrench flashes?

The background on the sled is, it's my old 1000. It's an 08 with 650 miles. Sled has ALWAYS ran flawless. Only mods are a skinz mesh hood which elminates the headlights, seat, and vents. Nothing motor wise. Before I sold it, I changes the DD oil and found some metal chunks, so I pulled the DD and found out the planetary had some gears messed up. So I did a full rebuild on that and put it back together. Also swapped skinz hoods with my M8, so the 1000 had the better upgraded skinz hood with heat shield. So along with that the M8 gauge went on the 1000. But the 08 M8 and 08 M1000 use the same gauge correct?

So aside from a DD rebuild and a different guage, nothing has been changed on this sled from when it ran flawless to now. Which makes me wonder, if it's electrical, might be something with the speedo wire as that's basically the only wires unhooked during this process.

As for the pipe temp sensor, I've had these go bad on my TM8 and they throw a definite code number, not wrench flashes.
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
962
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Lewiston, Idaho
I would agree with Tom on the pipe sensor, when mine went out it threw a lot of codes. When it goes out and it will just solder in a resistor. I would bet its an electrical short but anything is possible. Engines need three things to run (Air, Fuel, and Spark) I would start by checking to see if you are getting spark when you can't get it to start. With only 650 miles on it and no engine mods and stock programming the cylinders are fine for another 3000 miles so I highly doubt its anything mechanical.

Jason if you have any questions give me a call my number is on the riders list. I don't know everything about these sleds but I think I have them figured out pretty well.

Gary
 

CO 2.0

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Do the 08's have the same crappy wiring harness as the 07's? Check to make sure the wires (especially yellow/brown stator wires) are not rubbing against the upper mag side engine mount.
 

WyoBoy1000

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The pipe sensor could do it but it can be many things, the way you described it doesn't sound like a short, but it could be. When you discribed how you shut it off after a hard pull and it wouldn't start sounds like a heat soaked issue. If it where me I would take a pipe temp sensor with me, (prob just buy the GM one) even if its not the problem eventually you will need it. If you make a hard pull and its idling higher than normal and shut it off it can cause a heat soak issue so try to always let it idle down first. Heat soaked is when the temp sensor reads the motor is to hot it leans out the ecu, its a limp mode setting. But if it wont start then have someone blow in the baro tube, (the clear tube coming out of the ecu) it reads barometric pressure and adding pressure to it will increase the demand for fuel (make sure the tube is clear to, if something gets stuck in it and blocks it off it will cause problems). If it is a hot start issue this will help it start or you can just wait for the coolant to cool enough to start. It also kind of sounds like a low fuel pressure problem or maybe the throttle safety switch is getting confused, you can disconnect every thing going to the handle bars and eliminate that problem, (plug in is behind the heat shield on the steering post).

The easiest way to figure this out is to wait until the wrench starts flashing and record the code/codes. After that if you can't figure it out, disconnect the hood wires, all wires going to the handle bars and the brake wires down by the brake rotor, that eliminates the easy wires. Take a look at your plug wires and caps, they do get rubbed through, look at the wires going into the injectors to make sure they are nut grounding out or breaking where they go into the injector plug. If it still has a problem, put a pipe sensor in it and see what happens ( you could prob borrow one if you have someone else around riding a M) Install a fuel pressure gauge and make sure you have the right amount of pressure(43-47psi). If you get all that done then you will have to start check ohm readings on sensors and stator.
 
J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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Gary, thanks alot. Riders list??

Took it out yesterday for awhile to watch for any codes or to see if it would do it again....and i didn't...so tomorrow after school im gonna take it out again and see what happens.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Jayson
 
J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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Troy, MT
Maybe it just needed some new gas ran through it, if your lucky. Make sure your running 87 octane.

That is what i have heard, that these things should only run on 87. But Tom has said he has always ran 91 in it so thats what i put in it the first day it happend. And when i went out on sunday, i put 87 in it to see if that makes a difference...and it didn't happen again. It is now filled with mostly 87 so we'll see what happens.

Thanks, Jayson
 

WyoBoy1000

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Its made to run on 87 at 0 elevation, unless you add mods that gain power you are wasting money with 91 and the 87 will produce more power and run crisper, just try to buy good 87 and if you can find it run non-ethanol fuel.
 
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