The Fix for blown bellows on the Turbo XP

Skyking · Mar 19, 2011

So I finally got my turbo XP sled all back together and running. Even went riding with Josh from Turbo Performance to make sure that everything was good. Thanks Josh!!! They really rock. There will be another post with video, and all the details with that later.

So every time that I have taken my sled out I blow the bellows. I start out at 6lbs of boost, and would go up to 8lbs. I have glued, and safety wired them in. They still blow every time. Well after seeing that Piston driven Rave Valve from Supreme Tool was working. I called Mark to get the time-frame and cost. Well $480.00 and not until April was to long, and to much. So got thinking, and talking with another member here about some fixes. Thought, why are we trying to fix the problem, and not coming up with a solution. So just like what (NUTTYN01) did. I pull a pressure valve in front of the the pressure solenoid. So I stopped in at Advanced Air Products in Murry, Utah. http://www.aapautomation.com/. I told them what I was looking for and trying to do. This is what they gave me. AirLogic preset regulator set at 5psi. Part # PR70051B1B. It has a max inlet pressure of 150psi and an outlet pressure of 5psi. So there is nothing to set, or nobs to turn. They did not charge me anything for it, so I don't have a price for you.

Well I rode yesterday to try it out. Works great!!! No blown bellows!!! Rode all day at 8 pounds of boost. Then turned it up to 10Lbs for 30 mins or so. Then we went the the hill that really takes a turbo to make it over. Did four long pulls up it at 12lbs of boost. Seeing that I have a new top end on the sled did not want to push it more than that. At 12lbs of boost this thing really rips. So no more blown bellows. Its an cheap and easy fix. Now you guys with block off in can get your low-end back.

hivoltagesledhead · Mar 20, 2011

Glad to see you are finally getting some satisfaction out of that turbo? Are you running the dpm still?

nuttyn01 · Mar 21, 2011

schematic

Here is the schematic of the rave pressure/vacuum solenoids to give you a visual. The pressure relief valve would go where the lines from the back side of the cases T down to one line before it goes into the pressure solenoid.

straightup · Mar 21, 2011

So you put the regulator inline were the number 2 is that is closest to the pressure seliniod

CBX · Mar 21, 2011

Pretty smart solution. Good job.

utah_sledder · Mar 21, 2011

I stopped by there today, they are $22. They are out of stock but can have them in a few days....but it got me thinking. We can acheive the exact same thing with a boost tee. All we need to do is drop the X inlet pressure to Y outlet pressure. With a boost tee (that is vented to atmosphere) we can drop the outlet pressure to 4 or 5 psi just by adjusting the screw. The one nice thing about the set regulator is that there is no guessing or set-up it has 5 psi outlet pressure reguardless of inlet pressure. The boost tee would take some inital set up to get the outlet pressure set correctly but that could be acheived pretty easily with a compressor and an air gauge. You can find cheap boost tees on ebay for $5 just another thought.

nuttyn01 · Mar 21, 2011

yeah

Trevor at high roller was accomplishing the same thing by teeing in a powerjet.

utah_sledder said:
I stopped by there today, they are $22. They are out of stock but can have them in a few days....but it got me thinking. We can acheive the exact same thing with a boost tee. All we need to do is drop the X inlet pressure to Y outlet pressure. With a boost tee (that is vented to atmosphere) we can drop the outlet pressure to 4 or 5 psi just by adjusting the screw. The one nice thing about the set regulator is that there is no guessing or set-up it has 5 psi outlet pressure reguardless of inlet pressure. The boost tee would take some inital set up to get the outlet pressure set correctly but that could be acheived pretty easily with a compressor and an air gauge. You can find cheap boost tees on ebay for $5 just another thought.

nuttyn01 · Mar 21, 2011

yes, between that and the pressure solenoid which is number 2 in the upper schematic.

straightup said:
So you put the regulator inline were the number 2 is that is closest to the pressure seliniod

winter brew · Mar 21, 2011

Seems like a very logical fix. Is there a reason this wasn't done years ago?...or maybe is was? Any drawbacks or chance of failure from cold or heat??

Skyking · Mar 21, 2011

Yes! I am finally getting to ride this thing without any problems. Three rides on it and no broken parts. Like you guys told me. "It would be worth it" Its been fun so far. And on 12lbs of boost its sweet!!!

Yep I put it in front of the pressure solenoid #2 in the diagram. It was a clear line that plugged into the bottom of the solenoid. I plugged the inlet side of the new pressure valve into that line. Then ran 3-4 inches of the same line for the outlet side of the new pressure valve, that plugged back into the bottom side of the pressure solenoid #2. So only 5lbs of max pressure goes to the Rave valve, which has the little black line that tees off to the top of the bellows.

I will try and get some pictures for you guys.

Yes I guess the boost tee would work. The only problem that I see with that is. You are only controlling FLOW, not pressure. You will also have to be able to calibrate it some how. Which I did not have the tools to do. Also, your inlet flow is going to change, which will change your calibration setting. I say if you are going to do it. Use a pressure valve, and get rid of any headache of trying to adjust something else.

Hope this helps!
Cory

Skyking · Mar 21, 2011

winter brew said:
Seems like a very logical fix. Is there a reason this wasn't done years ago?...or maybe is was? Any drawbacks or chance of failure from cold or heat??

That is what I have been asking myself. Why has no one had this fix before. Seems pretty logical to me. I am sure like everything else, things can fail. Only more testing and riding will tell. I will keep you guys posted.

Plus I am 100% on the pressure valve up to 12Lbs of boost, and 0% on the glued-in, and safety wired program at 6-8lbs. So I am already way happy.

brycter · Mar 22, 2011

we have been doing it since 2008. if you search this web site you will see a post that we had about this. knowbody beleved us so we stopped sending them out with the kits. but utah sledder had a tee with a jet in it and got close to 1300 mile on a set of bellows. double t had a power jet and so did high roller. I can also name alot more guys.

the problem that you have and you are going to have with this set up is the valve is going to plug over time with all the oil in the lines. that valve is made for compressed air with nothing in it. there is alot of ways to do it though. like utah sledder said all you have to do is get x-y with some type of relief.

brycter · Mar 22, 2011

here is one link. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204110&highlight=bellow

nuttyn01 · Mar 22, 2011

That is why I put the pressure relief valve before the pressure solenoid. The type of pressure relief valve I chose tee's into the system and vents additonal pressure to atmosphere. My hope is that any oil will take the "path of least resistance" and vent to atmosphere before it hits the pressure solenoid and rave valve assembly.

Time will tell. I will gladly take 1300 miles with a bottom end and a little maintenance.

brycter said:
we have been doing it since 2008. if you search this web site you will see a post that we had about this. knowbody beleved us so we stopped sending them out with the kits. but utah sledder had a tee with a jet in it and got close to 1300 mile on a set of bellows. double t had a power jet and so did high roller. I can also name alot more guys.

the problem that you have and you are going to have with this set up is the valve is going to plug over time with all the oil in the lines. that valve is made for compressed air with nothing in it. there is alot of ways to do it though. like utah sledder said all you have to do is get x-y with some type of relief.

swrev · Mar 22, 2011

What type of fuel mileage difference is anyone seeing running powervalves vs block off plates? I have block offs and I am using twice as much fuel as my old man's 860 XP and considerably more than my buddies 800 cat turbo.

PJ-Hunter · Mar 22, 2011

swrev said:
What type of fuel mileage difference is anyone seeing running powervalves vs block off plates? I have block offs and I am using twice as much fuel as my old man's 860 XP and considerably more than my buddies 800 cat turbo.

Upgrade. Rick is running the valves on his and my sled. Definatly more fuel useage than my NA 800 but not bad. I can still get a 50-65 mile day by carrying an extra 3 gallons. So I'd say that I'm about 10 miles shy of what I'm used to.

Skyking · Mar 26, 2011

I know a few of you guys where wanting more pictures. Sorry this is the best I could do without taking too much apart. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Cory

hivoltagesledhead · Mar 27, 2011

So you put it between the solenoid and the rave or the solenoid and the tee?

nuttyn01 · Mar 27, 2011

before the solenoid...so the solenoid only see's 5psi

Skyking · Mar 27, 2011

nuttyn01 said:
before the solenoid...so the solenoid only see's 5psi

What he said!!!!

The Fix for blown bellows on the Turbo XP

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