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You M1000 SLP MTX weight guys

AaronBND

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I went up and tested the new setup today. I was only pulling 7550rpm's. I am totally new to the adjustable weight thing. Do I pull a gram from the outer tip of the weight or the middle? I think it's the outer but want to make sure. I have full SLP setup so am looking for around 7700-7800rmp's. Right now I have the 77g with 3oz in the end and 2oz in the middle. Thanks!

Aaron
 
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WyoBoy1000

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I would pull one gram out of the tip, as long as your not dropping below 7550 its a good spot to be, where you able to do any real climbing, what track speed.
 

AaronBND

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I only wish we had enough snow for that. It sucks, but we only have about 22-24 inches right now. Where is this La Nina BS? I was only running up and down the trail pinned to hit 7550. I did really like the 46/36r helix we talked about yesterday though. TBD yet on the steep and deep with 3 foot of powder, but pulls hard on hard pack. Thanks for the info!

Aaron
 

AaronBND

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Alright, I hope it is dialed because I am already bummed those weights are such a pain in the arse to re-rivet. It wouldn't be so bad if the head and tail of the rivet wasn't recessed down in the weights a bit. It's nearly impossible to grind the head off, you have to pretty much drill the head off and knock them through with a punch. You can't even lay them on something flat and peen the new rivets right because of the way again they are recessed down into the weight. I tried using a center punch to spread the new rivets end out and it split the metal rivet. Unbelievable! Well, they're in there. I will just have to check them for a while and make sure the 7800rpm doesn't send a rivet flying and off-balance it........................I swear it's always something!

Aaron
 

WyoBoy1000

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MDS weights, they are profiled a lot like the mtx but are adjustable with screws and washers, but the are spendy. But if you shimmed the spider you will have to reshim it back. I have thought about tapping the rivet holes and recessing it so a screw/bolt head would drop down in flush then it would be easy tuning on the hill.
 

AaronBND

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Seems to me I saw a post on here not to long ago about some new weights that are adjusted using magnetic rivets? Magnetic rivets would work as long as you put them in the forward side of the weights going towards the rear. Not sure how they work going in reverse, but it sure would be easy to adjust. Do they make anything to hold the primary closed so you don't have to unbolt the cover to play with the weights? That new SLP spring is a biotch when it comes to putting the cover back on.

Aaron
 

Mntryder

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Dec 26, 2002
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Clutch Tool

Here's the tool you need.

Makes changing springs or weights simple while the clutch is on the sled.

Its called the Bunker hill tool or dummy tool. Runs about $50.00.

Have used mine dozens of times.

07-030.jpg
 

AaronBND

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Cascade Mnts, OR.
I would pull one gram out of the tip, as long as your not dropping below 7550 its a good spot to be, where you able to do any real climbing, what track speed.

Ok, I pulled one gram from the tip and am hitting 7680 on the trail now, but only 7500 climbing in about 15" powder. Should I drop more weight or just leave it? Do I want to be 7700 climbing? Thanks!

Aaron
 
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