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What engine oil are most using?
Engine Oil
- Thread starter FBM
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I have been using Motal 0-40W fully synthetic designed for 4stroke sleds. Its hard to find but it can be gotten
PM free agent for a price.
PM free agent for a price.
If it is a new sled with under 500 miles on it or it is a newly rebuilt motor be sure to use Yamalube or another synthetic blend oil. After breakin of 500 miles or more you can use a full synthetic. Personally I use Yamalube 0W-30 all the time. The following is from Yamaha. (Engine oil also lubricates the starter clutch. In order to prevent clutch slippage, do not mix any chemical additives with the oil or use oils of a higher grade than “CD”. In addition, do not use oils labeled “ENERGY CONSERVING II” or higher.) There are also a few steps to be taken when changing oil so be sure you know them.
I agree with Thistle that Motul is a great alternative. It's ACAE rating is A3/B4 in which A3 High performance and B4 is for direct injection passenger car diesel engines.
If I were to use another oil I would go with Castrol Synthetic 0W-30. It's ACAE rating is A3/B3, B3 means it was designed for high performance motors. It also covers B4. Mercedes uses it in their high performance cars so I guess it would be good for a sled. Castro SAE 0W-30 is another alternative that meets the performance requirement of a turboed sled.
I agree with Thistle that Motul is a great alternative. It's ACAE rating is A3/B4 in which A3 High performance and B4 is for direct injection passenger car diesel engines.
If I were to use another oil I would go with Castrol Synthetic 0W-30. It's ACAE rating is A3/B3, B3 means it was designed for high performance motors. It also covers B4. Mercedes uses it in their high performance cars so I guess it would be good for a sled. Castro SAE 0W-30 is another alternative that meets the performance requirement of a turboed sled.
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Stopped by a yammy dealer and was recommended 10w-40 amsoil if I wanted to go to fully synthetic oil.... You guys think this is alright, or do I need an oil with lower viscosity?
-Justin
-Justin
M
4000 boosted miles with Mobil1 Synthetic 5w30.
Oil is a touchy subject especially for snowmobile guys, but I would put the first 500 miles on them with Yamalube 5w30 or 10w40 petroleum for break in. After than switch to a synthetic of your choice with the qualifications Motly listed above.
The lower the W number the lower temp it functions properly at. 0W is rated to a lower temp than 5W so I would not go 10W if you have remotely cold temps where your at. Just go Yamalube brother. You have a $10,000 sled dont' skimp 20 bucks on the life blood of it.
Maybe off topic but what does the "slippery" oil have to do with the roller clutch assembly? So aftermarket additives such as Slick 50 are more "slippery" than the best synthetic? Just wondering because the Castrol Syntec advertises that it coats the engine parts with a super slick coating that actually bonds to the metal, dosen't seem to be any different than what the additives advertise.........Sherm
I feel ya bro I'm all about quality that's why I went with fully synthetic amsoil. But even on their website they only have 10w 30 and 40, I'm in Utah and I haven't seen it get below 0 here but I already put the oil in u think I should drain it and put something less viscous in it?
Your not off topic here at all. The point of my post about the Yamaha Warning was information for people to look at and make an educated decision. No matter what oil you do buy make sure it does not say "Energy Conserving II" on it. I guess some of the newer synthetic oils are coming with that added to their label. Mobil 1 full synthetic for example says "Energy Conserving", not number II just Energy Conserving so I would say that it lacks something that Yamaha deems will damage the Clutch rollers in the Starter Clutch assembly. I assume that's what rollers you were talking about. Just putting the info out there. My point about not using a full synthetic holds true. Do not use is on a new motor or a rebuild, you must let the rings seat properly and they will not do that with a full synthetic oil.
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That's a judgement call on your part but I would pull it and go 0W-30 Yamalube and have piece of mind. Keep in mind that your motor is designed and tested to run best with 0W-30. If you are using a 10W you may not be getting the cold start protection you need in a sled motor. If that oil is to thick it may not be coating everything properly at start up. Not good for rod bearings or journal bearings. If you get ring blow by and lose compression etc it's just one less thing to look at as a culprit if you have the proper oil in her.
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FWIW, I've been running 0w30 Mobil 1 full syn in my Impulse Nytro.
A few years ago, this seemed to be a popular choice among the masses...TY and SW.
I'm sure its turned into what 2s oil has become by now though..
A few years ago, this seemed to be a popular choice among the masses...TY and SW.
I'm sure its turned into what 2s oil has become by now though..
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Same here, I broke in my motor with Yamalube and switched to mobil full syn for the last 3 years on my impulse nytro, this is the first time anyone has brought up the starter issue, good topic though.
Thanks Motleyone, those were the rollers I was talking about. After looking at the schematics for the starter clutch it appears they run metal on metal, I thought they may have been some sort of "fibre" clutch in there that they different oil could screw up, you cleared it up.......Sherm
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Starter Clutch
Thanks for the discussion. Did some searching over on TY about this starter clutch issue. It turns out it is a miss-print in the service manual that is in reference to the R1 bike.On a sled there is no oil in the starter. On the bike the starter has a wet clutch. The type of oil is critical. My quad has the same thing in the transmission. I run 0-40 Amsoil in it . Amsoil states that this particular oil is okay for wet clutches. If the synthetic oil does not have the additive for wet clutches it will shine up the clutch discs too much and they will start to slip.
Thanks for the discussion. Did some searching over on TY about this starter clutch issue. It turns out it is a miss-print in the service manual that is in reference to the R1 bike.On a sled there is no oil in the starter. On the bike the starter has a wet clutch. The type of oil is critical. My quad has the same thing in the transmission. I run 0-40 Amsoil in it . Amsoil states that this particular oil is okay for wet clutches. If the synthetic oil does not have the additive for wet clutches it will shine up the clutch discs too much and they will start to slip.
I run the black/gold colored stuff..
Actually, currently running mobil 1 synthetic 0-40.. time to change it.
Actually, currently running mobil 1 synthetic 0-40.. time to change it.
No oil expert by any means but I know there is alot of talk with newer car oils having to change to help emisssions etc. Few engine builders have said to use oil designed for motorcycles as they do not have this issue and contain more phosphorous? Ive always ran mobil one and in our drag quads etc it has help engine life greatly. Here is what there web site says on the difference....
Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).
Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).
It is not a misprint. The starter one way clutch mechanism is in the engine and bathed with oil.....not in the starter, which you are correct in saying has no oil. Look at the parts diagram for the engine to see how it works. Same mechanism that has been used since at least 2003 in the RX1 engine.
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Not trying to argue, just trying to understand.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=81571&highlight=wet+clutch+starter
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=81571&highlight=wet+clutch+starter
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