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team tied clutch

byeatts

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who has tried the team tied secondary clutch kit on an 800 xp at high elevation ? what were you impressions?

Works very well at 7 to 10,000. Use 66/60.Better performance than stock by far.Runs cool and very quick shift
 
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what I ment to ask is how much difference is there between the two, as in climbing ,how many lenghts higher,or how much quicker than stock? thanks
 

byeatts

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what I ment to ask is how much difference is there between the two, as in climbing ,how many lenghts higher,or how much quicker than stock? thanks

I run the tied on a 880 and a 860, RPM,s are very solid with great shift.Its as perfect of a setup as I,ve ever seen at altitude.
 

byeatts

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The 70/59 work very well too with great belt life and gives a little more track speed too. It work night and day better than the stock clutch.

70/59.Your not running the new tied with that are you?And what elevation?seems it would over-rev a bit on the bottom
 
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winter brew

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Fron what I've seen and feedback from ALOT of people, the only benefit of going to the TEAM is accessibility to carbs. A properly setup QRS is just as good or better IMO....properly setup is not stock.
 

byeatts

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6000/9000 yes stock parts in dive clutch no over-rev in a stock XP
the big bores will pull more wieght.

The suggested helix is 66/60 from team.which is more agressive upshift. Did you try that setup and were not able to pull rpm,s off the bottom?
 

byeatts

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Fron what I've seen and feedback from ALOT of people, the only benefit of going to the TEAM is accessibility to carbs. A properly setup QRS is just as good or better IMO....properly setup is not stock.

Feedback typically favors whatever someone it running at the time.Apples to apples and valid info is when both clutches are taken to the hill and put on same sled ,same hill. same day and thats what I did , The Team Tied out performed the stock QRS/shockwave setup.
 

winter brew

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Ya, a shockwave is a huge compromise....not enough angle spread. There are MUCH better options for a QRS IMO.
 

byeatts

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The 70/59 is more aggressive up shift at the beginning and 59 at the end holds the rpm better.

I agree on a stock sled ,On a BB -70 may over . have you run the 66/60.My RPM,s are glued to 8100 on the 880 regaurdless of conditions from start to full shift?
 
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clutch man

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I agree on a stock sled ,On a BB -70 may over . have you run the 66/60.My RPM,s are glued to 8100 on the 880 regaurdless of conditions from start to full shift?

the 70 makes the BB pull harder than the 66 and in a long climb the 59 just was not much different than the 60. The big BB works better loaded harder and the 70 does that. try it you will like it better than the 66/60 gets out of the hole better.
 

winter brew

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I agree.....the BB's need to be loaded harder low-mid to realize the power gains. I go with more helix at the start and less primary spring start, finish with a slightly shallower ramp and less helix to maintain load and hold RPM/backshift. (vs a stock 800 setup)
This is where a Shockwave comes in handy....adjusting angles at multiple shift points (taking lots of notes) to get the desired results and have a helix cut to the desired angles to optomize up/back shift at ALL shift ratios. Sometimes (all the time.. LOL) the standard available cuts are not what's needed. :face-icon-small-win
 
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