SLP performance pkg clutching??

i know u said m8, but

i have an 09 m1000 162, with full slp pipe kit , and the SLP exact clutching for 6-8000 ' and i'm very happy with the 46/36 helix made a big difference, have not geared down, sled pulled hard, i did not need to change any of the shims, hope this may help some, also just bought pcv, but have not been able to test yet, good luck

fasta76 said:

I know this has been talked about lots.. And ive done lots of searchs and reading!!

My question is. What are guys using for clutching for the m8 with the slp performance pkg? I know they recomend the MTX weights but was wondering what others have found to work? Dont really want to reshim the spider in the primary if i dont have to. i ride between 4000-8000 ft my sled is an 07 m8 with a 162 powerclaw. I already have the pipe kit so i was thinking of going with there porting and PC-V.

Any help would be great!

Click to expand...

I run an 09 HCR with Secondary-44/36 progressive, shift assist and rocks and stock orange spring. Primary-stock titanium spring, Dalton adjustable weights with 75.5 grams total, stock shim. Pull 7,900 RPM up to about 7,000 ft then if I need to I can take out 1.9 grams from my Daltons and get the r's back up, however even at 8,000 I'm only down to about 7,600 RPM and thats still in the recommended range. I run V-force and SW pipe and custom intake with the PC-V handling fuel....your AFR Table will be your challenge.

My experience of the SLP map has been awesome. Checked the plugs a few times and they look perfect always. Seems like its a little rich on occasion but never loads up or anything and without EGTs or A/F I like to know its a little on the safe side anyway.

I ran the mtx with a shimmed spider but decided to run some other weight and took the shim out. Then a roller went and ate up one weight so I took the mtx weights and (all three together) and put a two pins in the them to hold them tight in a line. One pin in the bolt hole and one in the outer weight hole. Then I ground a 45* off the inside of the weight tip (where when the clutch is fully disengaged it comes to rest on the outer clutch sheave) I took off just enough so the belt clearance was perfect(had to take a little at a time and check) it took off 1.4 grams of weight by doing this. For my elevation they recommend 1g in outer hole, since I removed 1.4g off the tip I put a 3g in the outer hole and it hits rpm perfect. It runs as good as before or better. Just make sure they are all the same weight and are the same length and angle you grind so it will make contact at the same time.

I think it is B.S. That SLP designs weights so that you will send them your clutch for shiming when they could have built it this way, and also they could have threaded the holes so you could use screw to adjust the weight.