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46/36 instead of 46/40. What to expect?

R
Mar 25, 2009
495
80
28
Palmer,AK.
Dealer in a friend are both recommending a shift assist and 46/36 helix with the stock springs and weights (67's 0-3000) for my 09 800. However they both figured I had a straight 40.
I bought the 46/36 today and went to install it, but discovered I had a 46/40 already set up from the dealer.

Should I still try the 46/36? What can I expect RPM wise?

I'm only pulling 7500 in a steep pull and hoping this will get me back up towards 7850-7900.
 
T

theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
890
113
Soldotna Alaska
What are you seeing for rpm now on the hardpack? Deep but flat? Or at the base of a hill before it turns up? That is most likely the rpm that you will be seeing durning a steep pull with the new helix. I think you are going to like it. Most all the cat guys I know are running straight 36's. Your 40/36 with shift assist whould work well.
 
R
Mar 25, 2009
495
80
28
Palmer,AK.
I was seeing 8040 then it would settle to 7920 in the flat ground.

Then I put in lower gears and now am only seeing 7650, settling down to about 7500. Same in a pull.

Weird part is it's getting 48 MPH track speed! On a pull in deep snow.

A friend is running the 46/36 and same gears getting 7900-8000...

I just thought the stock helix was more like a straight 36 or 40. Was surprised to find I already had a 46/40 so now I wonder is this will make as much difference as I was hoping for?

Is the orange spring what I want to be running with this?
 
J

JasonAK

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2007
759
134
43
The 36 finish holds rpms better than the 40 finish. I went from the stock 44/40 to 46/36p with shift assist (Brads Set-up ASAC) I did not notice a big difference out of the hole but it seamed to hold RPMs better when climbing.

If I was to do it agian I would go with a 42/36p

I am not sure if you would gain any rpms with just the helix change....

What primary wieghts are in it now? 2009 or 2010 model? 67's are to light for a 09 you should have 75's or 77's in it.

2009 Crossfires come with 46/40 for 0-3000', M8's with 44/40 0-3000'


Jason
 
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R
Mar 25, 2009
495
80
28
Palmer,AK.
It is a Crossfire (09) and had a 46/40 in it stock. Strange to me.

Maybe it's 77's, not 67's. Haven't looked in the primary yet. Whatever stock 0-3000 weights are.

Just grabbed one of Brads shift assists.

Trying to decide right now if I want to install this helix or take it back and grab different one...?
 
B

BLOME

Member
Nov 17, 2009
31
16
8
definantly keep the 46/36p!! i've run this on my m7 and my m8 without any problems.. if u haven't swaped rollers NOW is the time while u have your clutch apart.... the helix bard sold u is a progressive style. the stocker ur runnin now is a compound style.. look at both of these helix's side by side and u will see that the 46/40 has a sharp angle in there where it changes angles .....ur sled doesn't like this trust me... it makes backshifting under load alot harder...vs the progressive style.......

my .02
good luck
 
R
Mar 25, 2009
495
80
28
Palmer,AK.
Cool, I threw it in so we'll see how she likes it this weekend.

Just hope my RPM's come back from the gear down now. It's got tons of low end, but not holding enough R's up top.

As soon as I get it dialed perfect I'll add the SLP pipe kit and throw it all off again!
 
B
Nov 27, 2007
735
120
43
Rovaniemi, Finland
I have 48/40p with torsional setup (r/w spring) and 77gr weight (I think it may have juice to run even more weight at top?) and stock y/w spring. Gears are 57/63 and 8000 rpms. My sled is big bored 700cc so it's different sled. My point is I love that progressive helix! Power comes out really smooth without any "flat spots" in power curve. I tried stock (angled) 44/40 helix but upshift and backshift isn't smooth. That progressive helix just keeps pulling arms straight hard from zero mph.

I'd like to try shallow end angle and more weight. Need to buy 48/38, 46/36 or 48/36...

The reason I'd like to try shallow end angle is I blow a belt right when speedo hits 130 kmh. Belt must hit the helix?
 
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T

trencher

New member
Nov 28, 2007
73
4
8
Missoula
If you can not hold your rmp when its shifting. Try a primary spring with a stronger finish to bring up your rpm.You might have to go to SLP or Erlingston to find the right spring.
 
J

JasonAK

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2007
759
134
43
Try a spring with a 340 finish. 120/340 slp or 125/340 Speedwerx. Once you put the SLP pipe on you will have to drop down to 75 gram wieghts on the primary in order to hold 8050+ in a climb. I found it hard to clutch the M for AK, the 77's work great at 0-2000' but when you get up to 2000-4000' you need the 75's in order to get the pipe in the powerband 8000-8100 rpm.

Jason
 
R
Mar 25, 2009
495
80
28
Palmer,AK.
Rode today...

Still not seeing the RPM's I'm looking for. Think the primary spring is binding, it's missing a lot of paint.
Getting 7640 rpm's in a climb and about 7800 on the flats. It does pull harder and hold rpm better in the climb. Just not spinning high enough though.

Going after the spring pocket in the spider tomorrow with a die grinder.
 
R
Mar 25, 2009
495
80
28
Palmer,AK.
Ya, but I'm on the very bottom of that right now though. The absolute best I'm seeing is 7640. Really averaging more like 7500.
Stock it was more like 7950 and pulled a lot harder.

Really want to see another 200-300 out of it.
 

snowmanx

Well-known member
Premium Member
Aug 13, 2001
2,163
442
83
54
Polson, Montana
A little lighter primary weights. I was always taught to change your your weights to adjust for your RPM. Then adjust your secondary for bst backshifting and upshifting characteristics.
 
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