Replace your super soft Helix Screws with Allen Head Machine Screws

Frostbite · Jan 26, 2010

Guys, I have had it with removing 9 the super soft helix mount screws.

I had bought several bags of these torx head screws as replacements and stripped out a couple more of them my last helix change.

So, I went to a fastener store and bought 20 of the Allen Head Machine screws of the same size. They should make removal of these screws much less of an issue and should last the life of the sled.

It cost me less than $10 for 20 of these machine head screws.

They are 10-24 x 1.25" screws. Which means they are 3/16" with 24 threads per inch and a 1 1/4" long.

Headaches over!

PowerJoe · Jan 26, 2010

I thought there was an issue with the thicker head rubbing on something at full shift out. Anyone know if it was only certain models?

I have taken about 6 clutches apart and never had issues, but I use a torch to break the loctite.

Skinner · Jan 26, 2010

I have had issues with them breaking while riding with my old RKT set-up. Went to the local fastenal store and bought some stainless screws with a button head and fits an allen wrench. Works great and no more breakage

skidooboy · Jan 26, 2010

i switched both my m8's over the the allen heads as shown above, have over 800 miles combined on both sleds, in mountain powder and trail riding, and zero contact issues. alot easier than the break prone stockers. i run locktite and dont have to heat them with the larger allen heads. just twist and go. ski

killerrf · Jan 26, 2010

well you should check what full shift out will be with bigger bolt heads. depending on how far in the secondary is for the offset they could hit. mine didnt on my '08 m8 but i see they rubbed with my '09 m1. so i had to switch back. they can be reused a few times after that i would get new ones.

polarisfornow · Jan 26, 2010

I did this to my secondary along time ago and anyone that does this should definitely check out their secondary at full shift. I had to add quite a few delrin washers to get my deflection right so I was ok but each sled will be different.

excellent fix though especially if you are swapping out helixes alot.:face-icon-small-hap

Frostbite · Jan 26, 2010

At the fastener store they did ask me which heads I wanted and since I had to add three washers to shim my secondary out to reach the clutch deflection specification I felt I should be ok with machine head screws.

Hum, if I run into a clearance issue I guess I will trade in my Allen head machine screws for Allen head button head screws?

lewirick · Jan 26, 2010

When I replaced the screws in my clutch, I was concerned about clearances so I used a drill press with a stop to countersink the screws about an eighth of an inch and then used one inch screws. Worked great except for an unrelated problem with the bushing that Arctic Cat wouldn't warranty because I had altered the clutch.

Rprecision · Jan 26, 2010

Frostbite said:
At the fastener store they did ask me which heads I wanted and since I had to add three washers to shim my secondary out to reach the clutch deflection specification I felt I should be ok with machine head screws.

Hum, if I run into a clearance issue I guess I will trade in my Allen head machine screws for Allen head button head screws?

They will hit !

Counterbore them back .250 and run a 1.000" length !

Search by my user, there's photos

Mntryder · Jan 26, 2010

Had the same thought on my 07 M8. Much better bolts and made it easier to work on the secondary, but yep they made a nice circle around my DD cover. Luckily caught it early so just keep a good eye on it.

Coxy · Jan 27, 2010

I just did mine today when i did my rollers. I put the secondary together without the spring, so i could fake "full shift" and check clearrance. According to the normal markings on my helix from the rollers, i have lots of room. If the thing shifted to its max bottoming the rollers on the helix, it appears as though it would just make contact. I dont lake race, and dont hold it open on the flat with no load, so i will probably never come close. Just assemble the helix/sheave with 3 bolts, and slide it on and check your own, because im sure they all differ a bit.

Frostbite · Jan 27, 2010

It's sure sounding like I'd best trade in the machine head bolts for button head allen bolts.

1rarel78 · Jan 27, 2010

I must be high,but is that part of the clutch not stationary so why should it rub on the dd, unless it rubs when hardly moving? or am I not thinking clearly. Did the ss allen heads on both of m's no issues.

gopher-it! · Jan 27, 2010

helix screws

brighton makes button head allen screws, supposed to be at leases grade 8. had all stock screws snap off my m1000. no issuses now. i also run a 1" screw where the clutch goes into reveres, you can see where they are digging into the secondary.

diggerdown · Jan 27, 2010

Be carefull with using SS bolts. SS is quite soft and they will break easily.

GlennRMK · Jan 27, 2010

I personally tried stainless button head allen screws and had a couple break.

Replaced them and later had them back out.

If you are replacing them, make sure you stick a bunch of blue locktite on there.

Anyway you do it, it is a pain in the *** to change helix on these clutches.

Wish they still had the old style roller secondary with the easy to change helix.

Ausm7499 · Jan 27, 2010

I also got tired of replacing broken screws on my RKT setup. I tried stainless steel but they broke off easier then the stock ones so I went to the black screws with the allen head and haven't had one break yet. I was worried a little about clearence to so I took a file and knocked a little material off the outside of each head and haven't had any issues and I don't have any spacers behind my secondary.

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Replace your super soft Helix Screws with Allen Head Machine Screws

Frostbite

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PowerJoe

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Skinner

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skidooboy

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killerrf

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polarisfornow

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Frostbite

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lewirick

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Rprecision

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Mntryder

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Coxy

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Frostbite

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1rarel78

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gopher-it!

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diggerdown

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GlennRMK

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Ausm7499

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