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Primary Clutch TRA 7 800R Blew Apart

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XP Summit

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
600
135
43
43
Minneapolis, MN
So here is the scope.....riding up in the Snowies about 9,000ft. The sled is a 2008 Summit 154 Summit 800r with HPS Can, DJ Clutch Kit. The rider mentioned mid that he felt vibration in the handlebars, later mentioning the vibration had gotten worse and there he wasn't hitting full RPM. He could barely get it above 7,100RPM, so he asked me to take it for a spin for the last leg home. Sure as poop the sled felt almost fine at idle, but the more it crept up in RPM the more vibration I felt... so much where at around 6,500RPM it almost hurt your arms to hold on.

Well the next morning we looked over the sled checked the usual suspects of ice, belt, driveshaft etc.... only to come to the conclusion that the rider had the spark plug wires on the wrong side. So we swapped the spark plug wires and the sled felt like less vibration and was hitting full R's (apparently Mavrick Motorsports informed us that the wires can be on either side)

Anyways we unload after a morning of wrenching on a few sleds to hit the hills... about 1/2 mile trail up the sled locked up shut down and came to a immediate stop... first thinking the engine seized up we slowly pulled the starter only to fell it not move but the sled inch forward, but didn't think about that. So while figuring out how to limp the sled home we noticed the belt locked half way into the primary and further inspection showed a primary roller arm had broke and locked the primary open. Knowing this was our last day we pulled the sled back to the trailer and the rider went back to the cabin to enjoy a day of R&R.

So the last two night's I have been pulling the primary apart inspecting and cleaning everything. So here is my question... What happened? I have some pictures coming in a minute. I first thought a roller went out, then maybe a cotter pin inched out, but now it appears that the out sheave primary bushing went to crap (not the spring cup one)... the ones that DJ, Winter Brew, and others have been preaching to us to change on the 07's and 08's to update with real 09 stuff. To me from looking at that bushing and comparing it with other ones it has almost wore down to the point where it doesn't even seem to be there, if you look at it has almost wore down to the primary's bare aluminum. From there I think all that slop cause a whole chain of other things to stress. I think it caused maybe the roller bushing to loosen up to then causing everything to get out of wack making the arm catch, lock and crack.

What do you guys think... am I off... did something else happen I am not aware of? Please HELP...

Also what do we need to replace, do we have to replace the whole clutch? ... it looks the inner sheave is fine as well a the out cushion/ramp half. You will see from the pictures the snap ring in the outer sheave bearing came out bent the aluminum and the aluminum is all messed up. If I am only replacing parts does the clutch need to be balanced now? Please help!

I have also noticed there has been excessive isoflex grease spay out of the crank seal compared to the other XP Summit 800R's in the group. I haven't put a dial indicator up to the crank ( I don't have one or bore gauge to check the bushing spec's) , but would poor run out on the crank cause the primary to grenade?

What are your thoughts.

Lots of pics to come!

Thanks
Shawn

P1211043 1 Resize.jpg P1211044 1 Resize.jpg P1211041 1 Resize.jpg
 
X

XP Summit

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
600
135
43
43
Minneapolis, MN
If you look at this pic you will see the big divot in the inner side where the arm locked into the clutch. Is that ok? Just rebalance?

P1211051 Resize.jpg
 

Dynamo^Joe

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Nov 26, 2007
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Thunder Bay, ont
www.iBackshift.com
I keep a big bag of TRA levers hanging on the wall because I sell around 1 lever per week
Get to hear about levers breaking from customers or curious tuners - this happens a certain percentage, yep!
I always keep levers in stock $21 bux. They are brp/cvtech levers.
...not trying to sell you one, just saying "yep they break" and there aint much you can do about it, it is a casting flaw.

The lever breaks at the point where is called the parting line on the casting flash they almost invariably break in the same spot every single lever.
The aluminum is poured into the cast, then the lever is removed from the cast. The part that the machinist breaks off is the tab in the location on the middle of the beam of the lever that they use to pull the levers out of the mold, that parting line is where the lever breaks.
...Does it create a fracture waiting to fail? - I believe so.

I just sold 3 to a guy in Norway as it was more economical for him to buy them from canada and the $48 shipping over there then to buy them new from the dealer....ugh!

Picture of Melmaq's lever attached.
 
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teeroy

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Joey, are some '08 clutches better than others in the materials used? I have just torn mine down for inspection after 1700 miles and there is no visible wear, rollers and bushings are all in good shape, I am even running the original spring cup that came in the primary. the second one we tore down only had a bad roller, other than that it was in great shape too with just over 1000 miles on it. but one other machine in our group has had bushings wear quickly, it is on it's 3rd spring cup and recently had the bushing changed again on the sliding half and he is at 1400 miles. all three machines are using your kit....any ideas why two have been good, and one keeps wearing out? mine was a late '08 build, the other two are early production models with serial numbers one apart.
 
X

XP Summit

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
600
135
43
43
Minneapolis, MN
Joey, are some '08 clutches better than others in the materials used? I have just torn mine down for inspection after 1700 miles and there is no visible wear, rollers and bushings are all in good shape, I am even running the original spring cup that came in the primary. the second one we tore down only had a bad roller, other than that it was in great shape too with just over 1000 miles on it. but one other machine in our group has had bushings wear quickly, it is on it's 3rd spring cup and recently had the bushing changed again on the sliding half and he is at 1400 miles. all three machines are using your kit....any ideas why two have been good, and one keeps wearing out? mine was a late '08 build, the other two are early production models with serial numbers one apart.

It's got to be Joey's clutch kits :) j/k j/k j/k joking LOL.... I am sure he has gotten that one before... Hey Mr. DJ your clutch kit caused me to break an arm from all that weight you told me to ad to ride my Mountain sled in Iowa. You owe me a new snowmobile.

Anyways without a measurement does the sliding half bushing look fine? or am I freaking out? I might grab one of those arms from you Joey, unless I find a local dealer that has one in stock like yesterday.

Thanks
Shawn
 

teeroy

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
It's got to be Joey's clutch kits :) j/k j/k j/k joking LOL.... I am sure he has gotten that one before... Hey Mr. DJ your clutch kit caused me to break an arm from all that weight you told me to ad to ride my Mountain sled in Iowa. You owe me a new snowmobile.
I'm not saying anything of that sort. I am very pleased with the improvements Joey's clutch kit provided over the stock setup, as is everyone in our group that purchased theirs.

I am wondering if there were different materials used in some of the TRA clutches to have such different wear results. maybe it is a crankshaft/vibration issue, where some engines have less runout right from the crate.

Joey IMO is one of (if not THE) most knowledgeable guys out there when it comes to the TRA. when he speaks, I listen....:beer;
 
B

badass1000

Well-known member
Nov 27, 2007
1,189
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Meridian, ID
Or it could be the thin POS cotter pins that dalton gives you to hold the weight pins in. I had the pos cotter pins break the bent over ends off and come out on two of my arms. then the pins can move in the end of the arm hitting the inside of the limiter cup. puts a side load on the end of the arm and bends the arm eventually breaking the end of the arm off. I had one bent arm and one that the end broke off. The arm with the end broke off gets wedged under the ramp and holds the primary shifted out on just that one arm. causes very bad vibration and the primary is held shifted out on the one arm. it will destroy the whole primary from vibrating so bad. I don't see why it wouldn't take out the crank bearings too from it vibrating so bad. Cost me $1400 for a complete new primary.
I thought the cotter pins were way too thin, but dalton had ben in the business for a long time and would know better then me. Boy was I wrong. fu%k dalton. I got a set of team pins and the cotter pins were way thicker, but not as beefy as stock. So I just ordered several sets of stocker cotter pins and not had any problems since. Their is another local sled that had the exact same thing happen with the dalton weight pin kit and cotter pins that came with the dalton kit. it was a 07 xrs.
 
B

badass1000

Well-known member
Nov 27, 2007
1,189
98
48
Meridian, ID
I have ben runing joey's clutching in my 08 xp since it very first came out and am very happy with it. I have his clutch kit for the xp with his mountain ramps on my turbo xp and am very happy with it. Just have team weight pins in it now. I know joey's stuff is made by dalton, but I am very unhappy with them and their cheap *** cotter pins. Look at the cotter pins that come with your weight pin kit from dalton and look at a oem cotter pin. oem cotter pins are close to 3 times the thickness of material. Wich one would you rather trust?
Do yourself a huge favor and throw the dalton cotter pins in the trash and put some oem ones in their.
Daltons pos cotter pins cost me $1400.
 
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Leaf27

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Premium Member
Oct 24, 2008
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exact same thing happened to me last year. Got a TRA3 from Stogans, never looked back
 
X

XP Summit

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
600
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43
43
Minneapolis, MN
I had one of my dalton cotter pins on my sled break at the ends during last inspection... put the old ski-doo one back on.

I would like to think it was one but we had the primary apart 3 days before that inspected the pins, made sure they weren't moving laterally and tightened them up just a hair for security. Also I would think if one of those let go I would have seen a little more odd wear on the ramp and the roller specially.
 

Blu Du

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Premium Member
Feb 19, 2008
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Nisswa Mn.
i have lost the main bushing before and it vibrated like a mother fawker. i'am sure thats why you broke an arm.
 

summitboy

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Nov 26, 2007
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Good to see BRP quality control is getting better !!!!!!! Uhhhhhh :confused:
 
T
Sep 30, 2009
47
9
8
Onoway, Alberta
08 XP Primary clutch

I was in Valemount. B.C. this past weekend. chest deep powder and a blue bird sky. sled ran great up the trail, once we hit the alpine I noticed vibration through the handlebars and wasn't able to make any more than 7700-7800 rpm. I lucked out and got it back home without it blowing. last night my buddy and I took it apart and found that the rollers and pins and stopper washers are all hooped as well as the spring cover assembly and bushing. the shaft of the fixed flange also has some scaring. I bought this sled last march as a hold over so it should all be covered by warranty. At least I hope it will.
 

Trashy

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Dec 10, 2003
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Sherwood Park, Ab, Canada
I keep a big bag of TRA levers hanging on the wall because I sell around 1 lever per week
Get to hear about levers breaking from customers or curious tuners - this happens a certain percentage, yep!
I always keep levers in stock $18 bux. They are brp/cvtech levers.
...not trying to sell you one, just saying "yep they break" and there aint much you can do about it, it is a casting flaw.

The lever breaks at the point where is called the parting line on the casting flash they almost invariably break in the same spot every single lever.
The aluminum is poured into the cast, then the lever is removed from the cast. The part that the machinist breaks off is the tab in the location on the middle of the beam of the lever that they use to pull the levers out of the mold, that parting line is where the lever breaks.
...Does it create a fracture waiting to fail? - I believe so.

I just sold 3 to a guy in Norway as it was more economical for him to buy them from canada and the $48 shipping over there then to buy them new from the dealer....ugh!

Picture of Melmaq's lever attached.

In the drag race world we polish everything and use filet radiuses on all inside corners. I bet that would help in this case too!
 
R

rkbrkr

New member
Nov 29, 2007
26
1
3
central montucky
sounds like the same problem my stock 2009 163 800 was having. noticed a vibration at about 300miles had all my friends ride it that had XP's nobody seemed to be concerned. around 450miles started loosing RPM's. being blown off by one dealer i continued riding trying everything from new belt, adjusting clutches, cleaning, plugs, ect. at about 600miles i was lucky to get 6000RPM but always tacking out from a dead stop at 8200RPM i found another dealer that was willing to look at it. everything talked about on this tread sounds like what the Mec. was trying to explain to me. i'm waiting on a new primary from ski doo right now, under waranty. just some clues for anyone that might feel as lost as i did. i will post results as soon as i have some. and if you have some pionters for me and my new primary please feel free. thanx everybody lots of good info here!
P.S. have had coil starter problems also.
 
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