Added shims to align clutchs, now secondary bolt won't start

M.M. 700 · Jan 1, 2010

09 M8 I went to align my clutchs, and by laying the clutch tool on the outside secondary sheave (towards the belly pan). And the tool would just touch the inside (towards motor) sheave on the primary.

So I added 5 shims to get the tool to rest on the outside primary (towards belly pan)sheave, and it still could come out more. But when I turn the alum deal on the secodary around to install the belt the bolt doesn't start because the bolt is to short. Because the secondary is moved out so far in order to get the clutch's aligned??? Just doesn't seem right??

I am using the correct tool. It is a 0644-427 1.655"

Fah q K.M.

JHG · Jan 1, 2010

You need to be on the inside sheave of the primary (closest to the motor) and the outside of the outside secondary sheave. I leave a .030 shim out from everything being flush.

It sounds like your alignment was right to begin with.

M.M. 700 · Jan 1, 2010

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32841&d=1224592816

Thanks BigHoe. I was going of the pic on the left in the link????

JHG · Jan 1, 2010

I see the confusion in the picture, reread #4. They are saying that you can be between 0 and .060 off the inside primary sheave.

M.M. 700 · Jan 1, 2010

Ah....Read huh? I will try that. Instead of just looking at the pics.

Thanks again

Frostbite · Jan 1, 2010

I just aligned mine too. I had to add three washers to be able to get the alignment bar to be able to just clear the inner primary sheave. I also found that I had to remove the washer under the secondary bolt for the bolt to be long enough to reach the threads.

Basically there's a .060 target to hit. From basically touching the inner primary sheave to about 1/16" (.063") out from touching.

venom1000 · Jan 1, 2010

M.M. 700 said:
09 M8 I went to align my clutchs, and by laying the clutch tool on the outside secondary sheave (towards the belly pan). And the tool would just touch the inside (towards motor) sheave on the primary.

So I added 5 shims to get the tool to rest on the outside primary (towards belly pan)sheave, and it still could come out more. But when I turn the alum deal on the secodary around to install the belt the bolt doesn't start because the bolt is to short. Because the secondary is moved out so far in order to get the clutch's aligned??? Just doesn't seem right??

I am using the correct tool. It is a 0644-427 1.655"

yes it's the right 1.make sure when using it that the wider part of the tool with the hole in it goes against the outside of the secondary clutch.if it is used the wrong way it will bring the secondary out way too far also causing the bolt to come up short.

rsss396 · Jan 1, 2010

the 1.507 bar is the correct bar

READ BELOW!!!!!

Desperado · Jan 2, 2010

On the 09M's the correct bar is 0644-427 1.655 per My 09 M8 owners manual. Looking at your attachment it says nothing about the 09M8's needing the bar you are referrig to. Now for the 2010 sled you are correct.

rsss396 · Jan 2, 2010

you are aligning the clutches not the chassis the clutches on a 09 M is the same as a 2010 M series

Frostbite · Jan 2, 2010

Now I'm confused!

I used the 1.655 alignment bar to align the clutches on my 09 M8. I had to add two shims to bring the secondary out to 1.655". If I had left it alone I was probably at 1.507. What's correct?

Heres' the info I used copied right out of the 2009 Arctic Cat manual.

Could this confusion be a causal factor of the belt related issues some of us are having?

CHECKING OFFSET

1. Open the left-side access panel; then remove the
belt guard.
2. Install the appropriate clutch alignment bar (see
chart) between the drive clutch sheaves.
3. Allow the bar to rest on the drive clutch shaft and
against the outside edge of the driven pulley stationary
sheave.

NOTE: The alignment bar must extend beyond
the front edge of the drive clutch.

4. With the bar against the outside edge of the driven
pulley stationary sheave at points A and B, the bar
should just clear the inside edge of the stationary
sheave of the drive clutch and rest on the stationary
shaft at point C. If the bar either will not clear
the inside edge or is more than the specified
amount, the offset must be corrected.
733-912C

CORRECTING OFFSET

1. To correct offset, the driven pulley must be moved
laterally on the input shaft. Remove the cap screw
and washers securing the driven pulley.

NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the shaft,
pull the driven pulley off using the Driven Pulley
Puller.

! CAUTION

Do not allow the driven pulley to “float” on the input
shaft. Damage to the driven pulley will occur.

! CAUTION

Do not apply Loctite to the cap screw or damage to the
gear case will occur.

Model Alignment Bar p/n Offset

Bearcat 570/570 XT/F-Series/
T-Series (500/570)
0644-496 1.507 in.

Bearcat Z1 XT/Crossfire/Z1/
M-Series/TZ1
0644-427 1.655 in.

rsss396 · Jan 2, 2010

I think the 1.507 bar is the bar that we should be using on our sleds and here is why.

in 04-05 the zr900,m-series&firecats had 8.5 inch primary clutches with 10 secondary clutches and they called for the 0644-427 1.655 bar

In 06 the firecats/zr900's went to a 8.25 primary and a 10.4 secondary and they call for the 0644-496 1.507 bar

In 06 the crossfire/m-series had 8.25 primarys but still used the 10" secondary so the 0644-427 1.65 bar was still recommended.

But from 07-10 the primary and secondary's are the same sizes as the 06 Firecats/zr900 so why would we still want to use a bar disigned for differant size clutches.

The chassis has no bearing on proper operation of clutches and there need for correct offset.

I have to believe Arctic Cat has been trying to address bely failure issues and they now recommend the 1.507 bar for all the 2010 models. And since my clutches are the same as a 2010 models I have to believe the best choice would be the 1.507 bar.

sledbasher M7 · Jan 2, 2010

alignment

Ok so I have a 06 M7 with a 10.4/I bought the 1.655 bar.Is it the correct one.Or should I gert the 1.5ish bar??????

Frostbite · Jan 2, 2010

This is one of those questions I'd love to see asked of the Arctic Cat engineers in one of the snowmobile magazines.

Of course now that I have the 1.655" bar I'd just love for that to be the correct number but, if you subtract the 1.655 from the 1.507 you get a 5/32" (right between a 1/8th and 3/16th of an inch) difference. I guess I can shave 5/32 of an inch off my adjustment bar, if 1.507" turns out to be the correct number.

So, how do we find out 100% for sure which clutch adjustment bar to use?

I have read of so many belts being blown and I really don't want to start down that road.

Rprecision · Jan 2, 2010

Frostbite said:
This is one of those questions I'd love to see asked of the Arctic Cat engineers in one of the snowmobile magazines.

Of course now that I have the 1.655" bar I'd just love for that to be the correct number but, if you subtract the 1.655 from the 1.507 you get a 5/32" (right between a 1/8th and 3/16th of an inch) difference. I guess I can shave 5/32 of an inch off my adjustment bar, if 1.507" turns out to be the correct number.

So, how do we find out 100% for sure which clutch adjustment bar to use?

I have read of so many belts being blown and I really don't want to start down that road.

I'M WITH YOU ON THIS !

I dont think the 1.507 is correct for the 09 M8, otherwise it would have called for it.

I dont think you can just assume everything is the same with the 10's unless you have actually done some very detailed measuring !

Frostbite · Jan 2, 2010

Thanks Rprecison, the question is, how do we find the real answer.

Maybe a dealer can call Cat directly and find out a 100% positive answer? I'd be happy to do it myself but, I just don't have the contacts.

Mine was at 1.507 with no shims and now it's shimmed to 1.677. I'm certainly on the fence. Somehow right now I am missing the simplicity of Yamaha's. The deflection is 15mm regardless of the sled.

JHG · Jan 2, 2010

Use the bar the manual calls for. I've been using the recommended bar for the last 3200 miles on my 07 with zero belt issues. Many of those miles are with a turbo.

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Added shims to align clutchs, now secondary bolt won't start

M.M. 700

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