T
Does any one have any tricks to get your primary clutch off your 900? I've tried everything and it won't even budge. I even broke the spider loose but the clutch hasn't moved. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
Primary Clutch Removal
- Thread starter TGitt
- Start date
Are you using the proper clutch removal tool?
One time my clutch did not want to budge and the tool was really tight (actually bending the tip)
I didn't want too, but I had to tap on the end of the puller and all it took was a light tap and it flew off with (bang) force.
One time my clutch did not want to budge and the tool was really tight (actually bending the tip)
I didn't want too, but I had to tap on the end of the puller and all it took was a light tap and it flew off with (bang) force.
S
I found that it's a lot easier if you put grease on the puller threads. Without grease a lot of extra force is needed to overcome the resistance due to friction.
T
It's the correct tool, and i tried tapping it as well... nothing.
T
I've had ALOT of grease on the threads and still no go.
Time to roll the sled on it's side. Pour some water in the hole, teflon tape the puller threads and then go to town on it.
H
Take it down to a tire shop and have them use a quality high torque impact...it'll pop right off. Just make sure to run the puller all the way in by hand before hitting it with the gun. I have read so many posts from so many people saying don't under any circumstances use an impact but in the same breath, they say to smack the puller with a hammer. They can both cause stress to the crank but at least the impact is not slamming the crank back into the case each time.
I tried every method to get mine off before the impact...water, grease, heat, smacking the puller multiple times each time I tried a new method. I bent 3 pullers (yes, they were the correct pullers) and probably smacked my crank 25-30 times before I finally gave up for the season. This year, quick jolt with a good impact (not the one you have in your garage), no problems. Just my 2 cents...:beer;
I tried every method to get mine off before the impact...water, grease, heat, smacking the puller multiple times each time I tried a new method. I bent 3 pullers (yes, they were the correct pullers) and probably smacked my crank 25-30 times before I finally gave up for the season. This year, quick jolt with a good impact (not the one you have in your garage), no problems. Just my 2 cents...:beer;
T
Okay thanks I'll have to try that. I've done the water, grease, hammer, and my whimpy impact gun, so I'll have to find a better impact.
It sucks and some times it is all that will get it off! Bent a few pullers also.
Be carefull of the threads in the crank and use a new bolt on reassembly.
Be carefull of the threads in the crank and use a new bolt on reassembly.
That's my experience to the letter! Great info^^^^^!
F
Had the same problem with mine. Sprayed this stuff called Aero Kroil in the hole and put teflon tape on the threads of the puller and it came right off. I've used Aero Kroil on every bolt and nut I had to take off the sled to pull the engine and didn't break or strip any bolts which is amazing for a 900. Just put this stuff on and let it sit overnight and everything comes apart really easy.
S
The water, the grease, and penatrating oil (roll sled on side and spray it behind the clutch and let set for a few hours, Then use a good impact gun, and set it to bang at a quick pase.
Just my two penny's
Just my two penny's
C
Try heating the inner sheave with a torch. This has helped me many times.
Put teflon tape around the threads of the clutch puller.
If you loaded the bore with grease and teflon taped your puller and it still doesn't come off, you probably have a serious problem ...
T
I've done this and no go.. What kind of problem do you think I have?
R
I had the same problem too, I got mine off by using "P B blaster" penatrating spray. Your local auto parts should have it it's top notch!
Spray behind the clutch.
Let it sit for a couple hours to penatrate then use a propane torch and heat the shethe towards the engine side at 12, 3, 6 and 9 for about 45 sec to a minute while under presure from the puller. The whole motor should be cold so you get the effect of expanding heat. DON'T USE A REAL TORCH TOO MUCH HEAT AND WILL CAUSE MORE DAMAGE THAN YOU ALREADY HAVE!
Of course the grease on the threads and alittle at the end of the puller where it's up against the crank (just a dab)
Run a quatity inpact on it and brass hammer for a few taps and should come off. A polaris puller is the best tool to use btw.
Also get All the grease out of your crank threads, before you reinstall, check the threads if you can't run the bolt in by hand don't force it! Get a tap to clean the threads up, it's a "m14 x 1.5" tap use a small wrench to clean the threads and use some P B blaster for cutting oil and Clean, Clean, Clean!
After install spray some carb cleaner down by the seal to make sure you didn't harm it while running, do the with caution! Also DON't start the engine without the clutch on you'll regret it!
Spray behind the clutch.
Let it sit for a couple hours to penatrate then use a propane torch and heat the shethe towards the engine side at 12, 3, 6 and 9 for about 45 sec to a minute while under presure from the puller. The whole motor should be cold so you get the effect of expanding heat. DON'T USE A REAL TORCH TOO MUCH HEAT AND WILL CAUSE MORE DAMAGE THAN YOU ALREADY HAVE!
Of course the grease on the threads and alittle at the end of the puller where it's up against the crank (just a dab)
Run a quatity inpact on it and brass hammer for a few taps and should come off. A polaris puller is the best tool to use btw.
Also get All the grease out of your crank threads, before you reinstall, check the threads if you can't run the bolt in by hand don't force it! Get a tap to clean the threads up, it's a "m14 x 1.5" tap use a small wrench to clean the threads and use some P B blaster for cutting oil and Clean, Clean, Clean!
After install spray some carb cleaner down by the seal to make sure you didn't harm it while running, do the with caution! Also DON't start the engine without the clutch on you'll regret it!
Sounds to me like this is another case of Polaris not selling the right clutch puller ..
There was a whole big thread Indy Dan posted about this...
I can't remember exactly what the crux of the situation was, but something to do with the fact that Polaris was selling the wrong clutch pullers as "900 clutch pullers" ..
You might PM indydan1 and ask him about it.
H
Some of them are just stuck on hard...that's all there is to it. The three pullers I bent were all the correct pullers and not all the same brands. Sometimes you just have to use an impact...bet the dealer does, despite what they recommend
I
Some of them are just stuck on hard...that's all there is to it. The three pullers I bent were all the correct pullers and not all the same brands. Sometimes you just have to use an impact...bet the dealer does, despite what they recommend
I have watched my dealer multiple times use an impact, but I agree with the statement above of making sure it is a good impact gun.
F
I don't understand what you guys mean by a "good" impact gun. What separates a good one from a bad one?
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