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Not pulling rpm

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DragonFreak

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2007
1,543
254
83
Heber Ut
I just went and picked up my 10-58 weights. I need to install them now. My helix currently is 56-42-36. My dealer told me i should run a 58-40? Does this seem correct? I am sure my gears are stock.
 

Boston Racing

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
3,490
1,628
113
Colorado Springs, CO
I would not worry about the helix just yet, Put the 58's in and see what it does. If on the trail it does not go to 8250 right away. then go buy the 10-56's. It is my understanding that the helix has nothing to do with the RPM the motor pulls, but more how it shifts in the deep stuff so first you need to get the RPM right then adjust the helix and springs to hold that RPM ( Please correct me if I am wrong. I am just learning this stuff.) I have a motor that should be very similar in power to yours and it did exactly what you are describing when I had 10-60's in it. Mine may even end up with 10-54's in it at our altitude. If it were me I would do EXACTLY what 800xtreme has suggested. You might not think so at first, but it will save you from buying parts you don't need.
 
D
Nov 26, 2007
574
11
18
Yakima, WA
The helix does infact have something to do with the R's on the motor. If you go from a 42 final angle to a 40 final angle you should see around 200 R's. Same with using the different springs in the primary / secondary. I have been fumbling around with the same issues and actually am going down the same path 800extreme is suggesting. I've actually tried throwing less weight at the primary and actually loss R's. I have a 08 D8 I'm going to 10-64's Lime Green Primary (150-340) going to try a 64-40-.36 with a
(140-260) secondary. Both the D7's and D8's run the best at 8300-8400. Best of luck.
 
S

sodfarmer

Member
Dec 5, 2007
306
12
18
Pry it open and put one of your weights in there to hold it open. Works like a charm.
 
K

krat

Member
Jul 30, 2008
169
7
18
Montreal, Qc, Canada
read this stuff and then according your objective change one thing at a time and see the result. replacing an helix will cost you $100 and a spring for the primary or secondary is $20.
krat

aaentuning.jpg
 
H
Dec 7, 2008
62
4
8
Omaha
I would replace the clutch springs before anything else, especially the secondary spring. I noticed a lot of people lost RPM on their 700 Dragons the second year they ran them.

I've been told that the springs are good for around 800 miles and then they fatigue. I also believe they get week when sitting compressed all summer.

One of the guys I ride with had an ’07 with an SLP pipe and it wouldn’t put enough RPM. I think the last day I rode with him it was pulling about 7200. When he got home he replaced the secondary spring and got back to 8000 RPM.

My ’08 would run around 8000-8100 with the stock setup and 10-58 weights at 9-11K.
 
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DragonFreak

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2007
1,543
254
83
Heber Ut
I have both new springs. I had a set of pistons so i pulled it apart and i am putting them in and the new weights. Hopefully this will help out. The only thing is on my pto cylinder there is a tiny nick above the exhuast port on the wall. would this effect performance?
 

rab

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 15, 2007
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Tiny nick looks different to different people
if its small like 1mm then it will not affect performance
just do a compression test when assy is complete
or post A PIC
 
D

DragonFreak

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2007
1,543
254
83
Heber Ut
Well i feel like an idiot. Because i took the cylinders to my dealer and it is a hole that is suppose to be there. He said my cylinders were perfect. The compression wasnt bad in the first place just the guy i bought the sled from gave them to me so i decided i would put them in. The sled has about 4k miles on it so i thought it wouldnt hurt
 
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