900/755 RMK: Recoil housing removal Warning

If you need to pull the recoil housing on the 2005 900 RMK/Switch/Fuse & 2006 900/700 RMK/Switch/Fuse

Read this first.

To access the stator or replace a broken starter rope you will need to remove the engine.

I highly suggest using high strength pull start rope from www.ftxmotorsports.com if you pull the housing off... It's a good investment in problem avoidance.

If you need to pull the recoil housing on the engine you will notice that there is one bolt on the recoil housing on the 2005's and 2 bolts on the 2006's that is not accessible...

Once you have them out... leave off these non accessible bolts for future ease of maintenence.

DO NOT pry up on the engine to remove the bolts.

If you do, you WILL break the front motor mounts (tear the rubber). (ouch)...

The thing that sux is that you can't tell if you tore them with the engine in the sled.

There are many of the 2005 sleds out there running that have torn mounts in them.

Vibration and belt heat/failure are some symptoms.

Crank failure to follow.

If you need to replace them... go with the stiffer durometer 2006 mounts from www.hiperf.com. or compfusions mounts

IMO, Do NOT pry up on the engine to get the bolts out.

You will have to remove the 4 front bolts and two rear bolts that hold the engine in the sled and lift the engine slightly for access to the recoil housing bolts. This is in addition to removing the belt, the primary, the chassis brace on both mag and pto sides, slp torque arm if you have one, the exhaust pipe and can and pulling the fuel lines from the tank. There are probably more things that I'm missing here... but you get the idea.

IMO, best to pull the complete engine and give yourself the ability to clean and check everthing out.

I also strongly suggest replacing all the bolts in the mounts with Grade 8 or better (L-9 or ARP high strength bolts)

I suggest using a small impact and the proper fitting 5mm hex driver to remove the hex-socket head cap screws that hold the recoil housing on the engine.

Do not use a loose fitting driver and don't use the ball drivers...
they tend to strip out the inside of the soft-headed factory hex-socket on the bolt that holds the cover and then you have really buggered up the bolts (held in from the facory with red locktite).

To pull the front plate/mount assy, you will have to pull the motor. (If you have broken the mounts or want to inspect them)

This pic shows a 2005 900 front motor mount. The mount was "laid over" in a vise to show the torn rubber.
This mount looked normal at first inspection!!

the 2006 mounts are different than the 2005's in internal design and hardness of the rubber.

Yes, compfusion is selling his mounts with improved urethane mounting components.

Luba, you didn't do a search on Hiperfs site did you??

Search: "motor mount 900" and you'll get your page

#345-512 fronts, #345-513 rears

Listed for 2006 only, but they also fit the 2005's

Get your fuel filters for the 900's here too.... cheaper than the dealer.

TTT.... before you try this this summer!!

rmk727.. you make a good point... these ARE "paint shakers" ...but I have over 3000 trouble free miles on 900's with the bolts not installed in the lower positon...many others too including some hot running 1140's and 975"s with high compression.

727... I hear where you are coming from... I've heard some pretty schetchy schemes out there.... some with very poor results.

The average Joe will probably pry up on the housing/engine to get access... that causes big problems...

I really would not tell someoe to do something that was dangerous or problematic....

The reason I pointed out the 975's and 1140's... they take a whole lot more force to pull them over.... which puts a lot more stress on the housing than the normal 900 (866cc)

The 2007 900 RMK's didnt even have the bottom holes drilled in the recoil housing... much less have a bolt in there...yet the recoil housing itself was the same except for the hole-less boss on the botom.