How do you get the throttle body assembly off a 900 rmk?

Dogmeat · Nov 12, 2008

Ok, so if my oiler cable wasn't screwed up before, I'm pretty certain it's been stressed to the point it's going to be now, due to constaltly moving the throttle body assembly around for the last 2 hours trying to fish these bolts I can't see out.

In this whole "replace the intake boots" ordeal, I've found that I have to have a die grinder in order to use the boots with VForce reeds, which I don't have, so Im putting the old ones back on because quite frankly I am sick to death of f-cking with this sled.

anyways, I've dropped 2 bolts for the reeds down in the belly pan, and can't get at them with the throttle body assy in the way, but I can't for the life of me figure out how the hell you get the damned throttle cable OUT, let alone put it back in ...

what should I do here other than put the sled up for sale for not even half what I have into it right now?

Jkinzer · Nov 12, 2008

if you lift the throttle arm up ( on the throttle body) you can push on the slack in the throtle cable and push it up to the opening and it should pop out. hope this helps

BIGGDAWG · Nov 12, 2008

if you are refering to the oiler cable you have to remove the 10mm jam nut to get the cable off where the cable mounts to the throttle body or the oil pump. not a fun job. then buy the fatboyfrenchy cable and you won't have that problem you can remove the throttle bodies with no problems

F1 · Nov 12, 2008

The stock oil cable setup is a POS! I hope the Polaris engineer that designed it has been fired. I know it does no help right now but Frenchy's replacement cable is worth every penny.

If you dropped the bolts under the engine try using a pen magnet on the clutch side under the motor, you should be able to reach them. I have had the same problem and can usually get them out that way.

FYI, I might have my stock cable if ya want it.

Just let me know

Bates · Nov 12, 2008

Frenchys cable is the ****, works awsome. Your issue with the throttle bodies and cable is really easy i dont see how you should have any problems with it. if you cant get'er done you might want to take it to someone with some mechanical experience. ive dropped my bolts in there too. it sucks. lift the back of the sled up giver a good shake, and they should roll to the front of the underside of the bellypan, put a lightin there find them and fish;em out with some needle nose pliers or an antenna with small magnet, or my favorite, something long and skinny to stick in there once you can see them, put some grease on the end of it, and carfully stick them an pull hem out.

CompFusion · Nov 12, 2008

Dogmeat said:
Ok, so if my oiler cable wasn't screwed up before, I'm pretty certain it's been stressed to the point it's going to be now, due to constaltly moving the throttle body assembly around for the last 2 hours trying to fish these bolts I can't see out.

In this whole "replace the intake boots" ordeal, I've found that I have to have a die grinder in order to use the boots with VForce reeds, which I don't have, so Im putting the old ones back on because quite frankly I am sick to death of f-cking with this sled.

anyways, I've dropped 2 bolts for the reeds down in the belly pan, and can't get at them with the throttle body assy in the way, but I can't for the life of me figure out how the hell you get the damned throttle cable OUT, let alone put it back in ...

what should I do here other than put the sled up for sale for not even half what I have into it right now?

Have you removed the PTO side chassis stiffener?? Many guys don't realize that this piece is easily removable. It's only 5 nuts and bolts to get it off the sled and it gives lots of room to work the oil cable.

Dogmeat · Nov 12, 2008

CompFusion said:
Have you removed the PTO side chassis stiffener?? Many guys don't realize that this piece is easily removable. It's only 5 nuts and bolts to get it off the sled and it gives lots of room to work the oil cable.

Nah I looked at that and thought about it but didn't wanna mess with it.

I'll see if I can get it off without screwing something else up.

CompFusion · Nov 12, 2008

It'll be easy enough once you get in there. Just remember to use threadlock on the cable end and not overtighten it as it's made of brass and cracks easily.

Ex-Member · Nov 12, 2008

Hah, yeah... that oiler cable's a b*tch to get off. Once it's off, loosen up the hose clamps on the boots and rock the TB off. Helps if the coolant's drained out, then you can pull the two coolant hoses off it and the whole thing comes right off.

As others have said... Pull off that brace between the clutches and the motor. Roll the throttle assembly around to loosen up the two cables. I'd yank off the throttle cable first, get the cable off the body (Bottom yellow circle) and then take that bottom nut off. That'll give you a little more room to squeeze your hand under it to get to that oiler cable end (top yellow circle) and nut.

Getting the other end of the oiler cable off isn't much fun either. Replace it with an FBF cable and you won't have to deal with that headache ever again.

DO NOT take off the red-circled nut.

Which is nice when you're retarded like me and knock bolts under the bellypan.

POLZIN · Nov 12, 2008

Mule said:
Hah, yeah... that oiler cable's a b*tch to get off. Once it's off, loosen up the hose clamps on the boots and rock the TB off. Helps if the coolant's drained out, then you can pull the two coolant hoses off it and the whole thing comes right off.

As others have said... Pull off that brace between the clutches and the motor. Roll the throttle assembly around to loosen up the two cables. I'd yank off the throttle cable first, get the cable off the body (Bottom yellow circle) and then take that bottom nut off. That'll give you a little more room to squeeze your hand under it to get to that oiler cable end (top yellow circle) and nut.

Getting the other end of the oiler cable off isn't much fun either. Replace it with an FBF cable and you won't have to deal with that headache ever again.

DO NOT take off the red-circled nut.

Which is nice when you're retarded like me and knock bolts under the bellypan.

Holy crap! I hope you took these pics when you where changing your t-body adapters . Those are the worst I have ever seen! I am replacing them on my sled this weekend ! Unfortunatly this is not my first set .

Dogmeat · Nov 12, 2008

Just ordered the cable from FBF ...

I guess i'm just gonna have to find somone in Vernal with a grinder that I can use.

My intake boots have just barley started to crack, I don't think they'd make it through more than a ride or two without eventually wearing all the way through, especially since I'm running that POS SLP intake.

Looks like I'm gonna be riding the 99' this year again

Ex-Member · Nov 12, 2008

POLZINHUNTER said:
Holy crap! I hope you took these pics when you where changing your t-body adapters . Those are the worst I have ever seen! I am replacing them on my sled this weekend ! Unfortunatly this is not my first set .

Yep. I too had difficulty getting the TB off. Once that was out, the rest of it came apart pretty easy.

Cleaned everything up after I got it out...

mountainhorse · Nov 12, 2008

You wont need a grinder... a really sharp knife will work... the VForce reeds instructions leave something to be desired for sure...

Dont sweat it my freind...

I like having the PTO clutch off for all of this... definately remove the the lost bolts in the pan... they can get caught up in the

Don't loose faith my friend... you will be on the snow soon...

If you need a FBF cable fast... I'll send you mine and you can send me yours when it arrives.

jsledder · Nov 13, 2008

I've got 90's sleds sitting around with intake boots that look better than that.... Are the new boots you buy better quality or the same and will need to be replaced in a year?

Looks like I better just get mine out of the trailer and in the garage and start tearing it apart....

SLDHVN · Nov 13, 2008

Oiler cable

That thing is a major PITA! I just did mine last night, luckily the motor is only halfway back in the sled. Also those bolts in the bottom shouldn't be to hard to fish out with a flexible magnet(mine werent

) Good Luck to ya!:beer;:beer;

POLZIN · Nov 13, 2008

Hey dogmeat It helps if you cut a 10mm wrench in half . It lets you get in there and turn the wrench

Dogmeat · Nov 13, 2008

mountainhorse said:
You wont need a grinder... a really sharp knife will work... the VForce reeds instructions leave something to be desired for sure...

Dont sweat it my freind...

I like having the PTO clutch off for all of this... definately remove the the lost bolts in the pan... they can get caught up in the

Don't loose faith my friend... you will be on the snow soon...

If you need a FBF cable fast... I'll send you mine and you can send me yours when it arrives.

That would definatley make this easier having the clutch off...

I will work on this later next week, I am starting a new job on Monday and I guess realistically the sled isn't going to be a priority for me the next few weeks ... need to get another paycheck coming in before I can really get too excited I guess

... I think before I tear into this again I'm gonna junk that SLP intake too.

Thanks for the help all.

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How do you get the throttle body assembly off a 900 rmk?

Dogmeat

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BIGGDAWG

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F1

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