Went to the dealer and picked up a tether today. Easy install, but won't start, unplug it and the sled fires right up. Gonna run to work in the morning and get my Fluke and test the switch. Any one else ran into problems with the Polaris tether?
Polaris tether
- Thread starter gonehuntnpowder
- Start date
K
I had 1 only really lasted 1 season. The rubber boot gets chewed up and no longer works. Take it back and get a pro armor tether
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/like/271664658755?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=116
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/like/271664658755?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=116
D
Probably a normally closed / normally open mixup but the first reply is bang on.... The rubber plunger tethers aren't reliable.
If you still have the packaging I would recommend returning it and getting a horse shoe clip style tether. Pro Design, Pro Armor, etc.
If your determined to make the polaris tether work... I'm guessing you will have to wire it into the Ign switch to reverse it's operation.
If you still have the packaging I would recommend returning it and getting a horse shoe clip style tether. Pro Design, Pro Armor, etc.
If your determined to make the polaris tether work... I'm guessing you will have to wire it into the Ign switch to reverse it's operation.
Need a tether for my new sled, anyone got a pic of one of these mounted? Ran a poo one on my 11.
My first guess is what you mentioned NC/NO mixed up.
B
Installed polaris factory tether , sled cut in and out did not work very well going to try another one from factory hope it works better . Maybe got a bad one!
With the factory Polaris tether, it is very common that the mounting spot is too thick. That causes the tip in the cap to not push the switch in far enough. Most people put a small pan head sheet metal screw in the tip to extend the reach and insure that the plunger gets depressed.
As for the Pro-Design / Pro-Armor switches; I will not spend any money on them because the owner insists on illegal hiring practices to cut costs (read they are made by illegal aliens). That is why I choose to not use those manufactures.
I've never had an issue with the stock Polaris tether as long as you put the screw in the cap. They are cheap enough and you should verify function before every ride anyway. My second choice would be Pingle (spelling?) similar to the Pro-design / Pro-Armor style but made from billet aluminum.
As for the Pro-Design / Pro-Armor switches; I will not spend any money on them because the owner insists on illegal hiring practices to cut costs (read they are made by illegal aliens). That is why I choose to not use those manufactures.
I've never had an issue with the stock Polaris tether as long as you put the screw in the cap. They are cheap enough and you should verify function before every ride anyway. My second choice would be Pingle (spelling?) similar to the Pro-design / Pro-Armor style but made from billet aluminum.
L
The stock Polaris tether works good but if the nut doesn't go on far enough it will hold the rubber plug to far from the plunger resulting in not letting the engine run. I found that not using the washer supplied with the switch but using a thin o-ring under the nut so that the switch is held tight it will work just fine. Had problems with the switch if the washer was used.
I used the Polaris tether on my '12 for 3 seasons with zero issues. Just put one on my '15 and it function tested fine. I install the assembly right below the hand warmer switch with the washer underneath the plastic console. Seems to work flawless so far.
B
Exactly what seems to be happening was thinking of putting plumbers putty in cap to depress switch more , seems like cap is to loose on switch!
U
They work good you are on the right track trouble shooting it should be an open circuit with the tether On and a closed circuit with the tether off.
Removed the tether and put the cap on unmounted and it worked fine. Washer seems to thick. Won't tighten down without it. We'll try the o-ring in the morning. Needs to push the switch in a bit more. Thanks for all the help.
hey Loudhandle
any chance you could post a picture of the screw mod you speak of
thanks
any chance you could post a picture of the screw mod you speak of
thanks
I'll go look at my current tethers and see if any have them. If not I'll find and post the screw size that works, with pics.
I just made this one from salvaged screws from old plastic throttle blocks, the screw I used are the ones that hold the trim on and the TSS and other safety switches in place. Lots of other screws will do the same job of course, that is just what I found in the last ten minutes or so. The other thing to be aware of is make sure the head of the screw is not buggered up as the rubber covering on the switch is quite thin and that is what makes it water proof. If the screw rips it water will get into the switch and cause you issues. So make sure the screw you use is smooth so your switch will remain water proof as long as possible.
Last edited:
The screw is a great idea. Put a meter on the switch. The plug only holds the switch 1/16 below the point the switch closes. This is in a new tether taken out of the bag yesterday. Depending on the screw you should be able to depress the switch another 1/8. This will fix the problem.
C
Seadog one works very well ... its a watercraft style so it uses a split clip instead of the rubber cap .... $18 cdn and you can use it for either NO or NC options...
IMO tether should be equipped / included by OEM and is the safer option over the TORR type setups ... just watch the vids of people getting sucked into a track ..
IMO tether should be equipped / included by OEM and is the safer option over the TORR type setups ... just watch the vids of people getting sucked into a track ..
I put a small dot of caulk in there. Works so far.
FYI Polaris bought Pro-Armor two weeks ago.
http://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20141112006841/en/CORRECTING-REPLACING-GRAPHIC-Polaris-Acquires-Pro-Armor#.VHJr0YvF-8o
That fact does not change anything; as the press release you posted claims it will remain a stand alone business. So with that said, their hiring practices and day to day operations will likely remain Status Quo (business as usual=still made by illegal aliens). They still will not get any $ from this guy.
Not what I was implying, just thought it was interesting is all.
I try to avoid buying things from California for more reasons than that
Last edited:
