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Hand warmer recommendation

bobback

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My 13 Pro hand warmers are mediocre; nothing like on the old 2002 pro rmk so looking at doing something different.

Thus what would your recommend for the best solution?

I have heard the term I believe corking; but if purchasing an aftermarket hand warmer is better, I would rather go that way.
 

gna87

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Dec 5, 2009
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Corked mine and my wifes, they work great. The cork keeps the heat from transfering into the aluminum bars which is why they seem to have low output. You can buy thin cork at NAPA and glue the cork on with contact cement. Take your time removing the heat elements because the tear easily. Try using acetone while your pealing them back.
 

balljr

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Also check the ground. Mine started to kinda work off and on and then just quit. Had my friend check them out and the warmers worked fine with a separate power source and ended up tracing it to a dirty ground. Cleaned that up and they work great!
 

MTN Powderhound

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Compressed air and a blow gun , for removing the grips. Used a heat gun to help remove the element. You have to be patient when removing the element, but it works. Just did mine this summer. Grips are instantly warm when I fire up my sled.:face-icon-small-win
 
R

rmscustom

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Jun 8, 2010
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Rsi hi power.
Work like a champ.

But hey i dont like the corked fatgrips.

I don't like fatgrips either but I noticed zero difference between stock and the RSI hi power (mine and a friends).

If you need them warmer than stock you better cork em.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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I don't like fatgrips either but I noticed zero difference between stock and the RSI hi power (mine and a friends).

If you need them warmer than stock you better cork em.


Maybe my carbon wrapped bars help?
Work just fine at 10 below for me.
 

damx

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I did the rsi high power grips also. Work the same as stock. Just less money to buy. For this year I put 3/4 shrink tube Under my hand warmers. It's a bit thinner then the cork, but not sure if it will work as good. I'm trying it because I had some.
 
G
Nov 26, 2007
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grips

I used hockey tape under the heat element and hockey tape over the element to take up the space because my grips were loose and moved...Grips are tight and have more heat...Also did a buddies and he found an improvement also...
 

scotts-doo

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I corked mine as well using the skidoo part and that worked great. On low was warm for the coldest days. I couldn't turn them on high or I thought it was too hot.
 

bobgrmkpro

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Feb 11, 2008
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Be careful with the compressed air. Use very low pressure or you will expand the hand grip beyond recovery. Use the thinnest cork or gasket maker you can find 1/16" is great. 1/8" is a bit thick. The cork will make your hand grips work very well. I did this on my 2013 Pro but I traded for a 2015 Pro. I would think that Polaris would get this FIXED at the factory for their customers.
 

bobback

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Finally got around to corking my bars. Thanks to scotts-doo, mtnpowderhound, and gna87 for answering my pm's.

Ordered the corking material from go big parts. Is self adhesive and perfect length for wrapping around the bars.

Peeling back the grips slightly and using an air compressor worked great for removing the grips and re-installing. Took a bit longer re-installing, but still works. They came off in about a minute, great trick.

Needed a heat gun to remove the heating elements. Hardest part was getting them started for peeling off, then was pretty easy.

Cleaned up the bars first with goo gone to remove the little bit of sticky residue left from the heat elements. Then used rubbing alcohol to clean the bars well.

Used 3m spray adhesive 77 for putting the heating element back onto the cork.

I am expecting some very warm hand warmers this year...c'mon snow!
 
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Lomark

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Dec 11, 2012
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Going to install the cork kit from Go Big and the advised removal/install advice. Cork is thick (Appears Approximately 1/8") but hopefully works well!
More input would be appreciated?
 
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