need a few suggestions here fella's

m8magicandmystery · Sep 24, 2012

i have my D/D out..i have the big nut off the brake rotor end...

The brake rotor seems to be not seized on the splines as there is movement

The problem is that the drive shaft is supposed to just slide out of the rotor towards the PTO side and can be removed,BUT BUT BUT..mine aint doing that..!!

It appears the shaft is tight in the bearing inner race..??..the bearing feels fine so there was no seizing between the inner race and shaft other then the original tolerance which suggest is not that tight if the shaft is to slide out..?

I have put the shaft nut back on part way and hammered with a block of wood..and a steel flat drift,still no movement.

i don;t think the splines worn a notch,it just seems tight..i am getting concerned that if i hammer to much or to hard i could deform the tunnel ..

any suggestions fella;s...have ya been here before..split the brake caliper and give her heat and sacrifice the bearing seal..??

The snap ring is only after the fact and its in the caliper /bearing housing to remove the bearing after the shaft removel right..??

arctic2009 · Sep 24, 2012

Ive had the same problem.. the drive shaft gets corroded and stuck inside the inner race on the brake caliper bearing. Spray some PB blaster on the bearing race and on your brake rotor. Let that work at the rust for a while. Then keep the brake rotor nut on the very end of the drive shaft (to save the threads) and tap on it with a brass hammer or rubber mallet. It WILL come out eventually. I took my buddy's drive shaft out after he sunk it and let it sit over the summer.. lots of pb blaster and tapping on the drive shaft. finally came out. Keep in mind the track is holding the the drivers in place too, so it is a lot easier if you just take the track out first, then tighten the bolts back down on the brake caliper to hold it tight while you're tapping on it. The snap ring inside the caliper is just to hold the bearing in. Don't be worried about deforming the tunnel, the brass hammer works the best for getting the drive shaft out. Good Luck!

RACINSTATION · Sep 24, 2012

As stated above PB blaster is the best I have found for this issue. It is very common on the Cats. A little moisture or corrosion and the shaft is stuck. I would tip the sled to the left so you can get some PB on it and it will penetrate over night. Next, heat the shaft up with a small torch a bit (you don't want to get it too hot as it will melt the bearing seals) and take a small piece of wood. I use a 4x4x4 piece of wood. Put the wood on the shaft and take a hammer and let her have it. The wood works really good because it wont damage the threads on the shaft. If it doesn't come out after 5 or 6 good hits, back to the PB blaster, and then repeat.

fasta76 · Sep 24, 2012

Make sure you lock your brake so it wont bang around! Use a block of wood and hit it with a hammer a few times. It will move slowly, Make sure to reassemble with grease!! I did mine this way 3 years ago and jut did it again this year and it popped right out now that it was greased.

m8magicandmystery · Sep 24, 2012

thanx guys..!!!!...yep i have been hitting it with the nut on...and i sure have been watching the track to make sure it wasn;t jamming..
good suggestions on the heat/pb blaster/locking the brake/loosening the caliper housing to remove the track then retighten...all great avenues to explore..

im just glad i am somewhat on the right track..i will be back in the shop tomorrow to soak er down for a day or so...thanx again...and as always...when brilliance doesn;t work,brute strength and ignorance will...!!!

cantrideinmn · Sep 25, 2012

along with the things above i found that if you have it tipped on the side find a 2x4 or some thing the right length and support the bearing area to the ground. this will take out the "bounce" when you hit the shaft.

Mjunkie · Sep 25, 2012

On my M7 the first time I took the shaft out I had the same problem. I turned it on it's side, sprayed the pb in and let it sit overnight, still wouldn't budge, did it another night and it still wouldn't budge. The 2 x 4 I used to bang against came apart before the shaft would move. I ended up having my dad make a metal cap to fit on the end of the shaft, and even then it took a pretty heavy sledge hammer blow to get it to finally move, because of the cap it didn't hurt the shaft at all but wow. I greased the crap out of it on reassembly, and haven't had any problem getting out since.

TheBreeze · Sep 25, 2012

Yep, removing the drive shaft is a pain, and a BFH with a block of wood, and pb blaster is what works for me.

sledheadjake · Sep 25, 2012

Same prob here,I used a big brass drift punch and beat the Hell out of it,it came out just needed a lot of persuasion!

m8magicandmystery · Sep 25, 2012

how have you fella;s been finding the shape of your bearings generally...??..and they are pricy from Cat...they must be cheaper from a brg supply outfit..??

m8magicandmystery · Sep 25, 2012

Mjunkie said:
I ended up having my dad make a metal cap to fit on the end of the shaft, and even then it took a pretty heavy sledge hammer blow to get it to finally move, because of the cap it didn't hurt the shaft .

so it didn;t mushroom the first few threads..??..was it like a bearing or seal driver he made..the inner radius to go into the shaft hollow with a lip that rested and drove the shaft end..??...did you have the nut loose but still on when you did the initial hitting to protect the threads..??

im just interested..i have sprayed it with P/B tonight and gave a few little raps and then tomorrow or next day i will set that brace up with sled on its side to take out the bounce as suggested above and just wail on her...lol..

fasta76 · Sep 26, 2012

m8magicandmystery said:
so it didn;t bushroom the first few threads..??..was it like a bearing or seal driver he made..the inner radius to go into the shaft hollow with a lip that rested and drove the shaft end..??...did you have the nut loose but still on when you did the initial hitting to protect the threads..??

im just interested..i have sprayed it with P/B tonight and gave a few little raps and then tomorrow or next day i will set that brace up with sled on its side to take out the bounce as suggested above and just wail on her...lol..

I just did mine and i think they we around $45 a piece? Something like that!

arctic2009 · Sep 26, 2012

m8magicandmystery said:
how have you fella;s been finding the shape of your bearings generally...??..and they are pricy from Cat...they must be cheaper from a brg supply outfit..??

I got some from a place called vxb bearings, you will need to know the measurements of your bearing and I can't remember off the top of my head what it was. They were about 30 bucks for the two

arctic2009 · Sep 26, 2012

It took some digging but I found the website. And the exact bearing you need. Same exact thing as the Cat bearing.

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/kit1028_1

Mjunkie · Sep 26, 2012

m8magicandmystery said:
so it didn;t bushroom the first few threads..??..was it like a bearing or seal driver he made..the inner radius to go into the shaft hollow with a lip that rested and drove the shaft end..??...did you have the nut loose but still on when you did the initial hitting to protect the threads..??

im just interested..i have sprayed it with P/B tonight and gave a few little raps and then tomorrow or next day i will set that brace up with sled on its side to take out the bounce as suggested above and just wail on her...lol..

Tonight I should be able to snap a picture of it and post it up. It's just a round piece of steel probably about 1 1/2" thick. The diameter is the same as (or slightly larger) than the shaft outside diameter and then he turned half of it down on his lathe to fit inside the hollow of the shaft, so all the force from the sledge blow went to the end of the shaft and not on any of the threads. It didn't mushroom the end of the shaft either. I didn't have the nut on the shaft at all since I figured I didn't need it. The bearings had some corrosion so I replaced them (but they turned pretty freely still), and now that I think about it, I can't remember if I used some marine grease on the shaft or if I put anti-sieze on it. I've had it out a couple times since then and it has slid right out without any hammer blow.

Mjunkie · Sep 26, 2012

Here it is:

m8magicandmystery · Sep 26, 2012

arctic2009 said:
It took some digging but I found the website. And the exact bearing you need. Same exact thing as the Cat bearing.

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/kit1028_1

thanx arctic 2009...we have an outfit up here called B.C bearing...they supply all the mining and construction..they will be able to use that number or i will order from that site...thanx again

m8magicandmystery · Sep 26, 2012

Mjunkie said:
Here it is:
View attachment 181262

yep..very similar to a bearing and or seal drive..good job...

arctic2009 · Sep 27, 2012

not a problem, anything I can do to help. By the way, if you do not have a press to press those bearings in.. I found a kind of hokey way of making a bearing driver.. but it works.. I got the old bearings out. (Make sure you pound evenly on each side because the bearing WILL get crooked in there very easily.. a buddy of mine did it once and it was a PITA to get it out after.)

Anyway take your old bearing and grind down the outside until you can fit it inside the brake housing without it hitting the sides. You can use the old bearing as a bearing driver and it wont cause damage to the races. Like I said, pretty hokey but it worked when I was in a pinch. 2000 miles on those bearings and they're still smooth. Good luck!

fasta76 · Sep 27, 2012

arctic2009 said:
not a problem, anything I can do to help. By the way, if you do not have a press to press those bearings in.. I found a kind of hokey way of making a bearing driver.. but it works.. I got the old bearings out. (Make sure you pound evenly on each side because the bearing WILL get crooked in there very easily.. a buddy of mine did it once and it was a PITA to get it out after.)

Anyway take your old bearing and grind down the outside until you can fit it inside the brake housing without it hitting the sides. You can use the old bearing as a bearing driver and it wont cause damage to the races. Like I said, pretty hokey but it worked when I was in a pinch. 2000 miles on those bearings and they're still smooth. Good luck!

Good idea Arctic2009!! Its always a bi**h to start the bearing strait!

need a few suggestions here fella's

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