Clutch weights for 5,000 - 7,500 feet....

Rush44 · Nov 3, 2010

Hey guys. Just moved over from the 1M forum to the M forum and it feels REAAAAAAL nice! Quick question...

Just purchased a sled from a fellow Snowester who lives in Denver and rides 10,000+. The clutch is obviously setup for that altitude. What weight setup do I need to go to for deep powder climbing and boondocking here in NW Montana around 5,000 - 7,500 feet? Aggressive riding style for sure.

2008/9 M1000 162.

Thanks!

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 3, 2010

You should add m1000 to the thread question so people know what the weights are for. Do you have any mods. Is it a 08 or 09. What weights and springs are in it currently. Is the rest of the clutching stock.

Rush44 · Nov 4, 2010

From the previous owner:

The sled is currently running the stock recommendations for 9k+. 36 degree helix with a sno pro green spring in the middle hole. 75gram weights in the primary. The previous owner also added a RKT secondary that he didn't get a chance to run since he put it on at the end of last season.

Hope that helps!

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 4, 2010

you will have to just figure out the secondary setup but at that elevation you will want a little more weight I think. I would throw in some 80g's and then take a SW G/W spring with you and if your under rpm you can just put the spring in and should get it where it needs to be. If stock you should not go under 7200rpm and not over 7400 rpm

Rush44 · Nov 4, 2010

I was under the impression that you want heavier weights at higher altitude and lighter weights at lower altitude. Maybe I just heard wrong. Too light and you can over-rev, too heavy and you won't achieve your maximum track speed since your primary won't close all the way.

Some more info would be great. Thanks!

MT Backcountry · Nov 4, 2010

M1000 WEIGHTS

I LIKE IN THE FLATHEAD ALSO AND RUN A M1000 ARE YOU RUNNING THE 3 TOWER OR THE 4 TOWER CLUTCH SOUNDS LIKE THE 4 TOWER?

Rush44 · Nov 4, 2010

3 tower primary.

MT Backcountry · Nov 4, 2010

SO I WAS RUNNING SPEEDWERX HAMMERHEAD WEIGHTS AT 70 GRAMS FOR THE 4 TOWER AND 92 GRAM FOR THE STOCK PIPE, NOW I AM RUNNING 85 GRAM WEIGHTS WITH A SINGLE SPEEDWERX PIPE BUT I HAV NOTICED THAT YOU CAN GET A WAY WITH THIS AS I HAVE A 44/40 MULTI ANGLE HELIX. WITH THE STOCK 36 YOU SHOULD RUN A SET OF 85 TO 90 GRAM AND YOU SHOULD BE GOOD FOR THE FLATHEAD AREA. MAYBE A SET OF 82.5'S COULD WORK BUT I FOUND IT WOULD OVER REV AND YOUR OUT OF THE POWER BAND BY 200 TO 300 RPM'S. YOU COULD ALSO USE A RED/WHITE CPC SPRING TO BACK THINGS DOWN BUT THE GREEN AC IS VERY VERY CLOSE ALSO?.

madmax · Nov 4, 2010

Before you buy anything I would run it first and see where your rpms are. If you have the adjustable RKT secondary that is awesome. If you do over rev you can bring the rpms down alittle by letting off some secondary spring tension. This is not the idea way to adjust rpm, but it will work for your first time out until you see how much you are over reving and then decide how much weight to add to the primary to bring the rpms down the right way. I really like the adjustable weights because you can add or subtract weight without pulling the clutch. You can get them from CPC or Mountain Magic. Also I would run the cat red/white secondary spring in the RKT setup. Anyway to save you some money, I would first run it and see what it does at your altitude and set up. Then throw money at it when you know what it needs.

Rush44 said:
I was under the impression that you want heavier weights at higher altitude and lighter weights at lower altitude. Maybe I just heard wrong. Too light and you can over-rev, too heavy and you won't achieve your maximum track speed since your primary won't close all the way.

Some more info would be great. Thanks!

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 4, 2010

You have to go lighter at higher elevation, if to heavy it will try and engage the secondary to far and pull your rpm down. I ran 75g at 9000ft so I would assume you will be somewhere between 75-80. the SW G/W spring is just a little bit stiffer than the stock spring and will raise the rpm as it take more weight to push the spring. You could just run them and see.

Rush44 · Nov 7, 2010

Great info guys, I really appreciate it. I'm going to do some road riding and try to watch my RPMs. I noticed, on gravel, that the clutch seems to engage pretty darn hard. I'm wondering if different weights or putting the RKT secondary into a different hole will help with a smoother engage. Currently it's one hole to the left from center.

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 8, 2010

engagement is not effected by the secondary, What clutch spring is in it now, the stock is Y/W. If it is different it may have a higher engagement rate. Or your clutch weights could be hanging up a little. Road riding wont tell you much and the rpms will most likely be lower on the hill, Just so you know never hold a constant throttle on the trail, good way to blow it up.

Rush44 · Nov 8, 2010

I am aware of the issues with not blipping the throttle down the road... I did the same thing with my 04 MC 900. Thanks.

I will check all the clutch settings when I get home and will report them here. Thanks for the info!

Rush44 · Nov 20, 2010

Took the first ride today with the current setup (as listed above).... not very happy with the results. Here are the issues....

1. RKT Secondary opened twice during riding, ended up having to remove the belt to get the secondary to close and engage. Happened after some deep clutch side powder turns. Mo-Flow side vents with prefilter are on the sled.
2. Even with 75 gram weights at 6,000ft I could only pull around 7200RPM and max track speed on the climb full throttle was 37-39 MPH.... terrible. Another guy with a M1000 said he could generate 51MPH with SW Y-pipe and some light mods
3. Power seemed unsmooth.... if you gunned it in the boondock there would be a definite bog/lag before the engine really opened up. My 900 1M seemed to transfer power much faster.

I think ALL of this has to do with clutching.... no real problem with the motor or anything else. I figured that with the lighter weights I would have to keep an eye on the RPM to prevent over-rev, but I never reached 7400RPM. Apparently the weight/spring combo must be preventing the primary from opening/closing effectively. I am a clutch noob, but I do understand some of the basics. Any help would be appreciated guys.

AaronBND · Nov 20, 2010

Honestly, it sounds like you have other issues. If you cannot get above 7200 on 75g weights at 6000 there are other problems. I would look hard at cylinder compression, what mods have been done, fuel box settings, belt to sheave, etc, etc.. How many miles on the sled and what mods have been done to it?

Aaron

Rush44 · Nov 20, 2010

AaronBND said:
Honestly, it sounds like you have other issues. If you cannot get above 7200 on 75g weights at 6000 there are other problems. I would look hard at cylinder compression, what mods have been done, fuel box settings, belt to sheave, etc, etc.. How many miles on the sled and what mods have been done to it?

Aaron

2008 M1000.... 560 miles. Added Powerclaw, RKT Secondary, new rollers, DD bearing replaced at 500ish miles, Super Q can, 09 Tunnel update. 3 tower primary with 75gram weights orange spring, 36 degree helix, sno pro green spring on secondary with spring in 1 right of middle hole (oooooxooo), Everything else is stock.

The current belt on the sled seems to be fairly worn with some fraying of the thread, but not anything drastic.

Edit: The clutch setup is the recommended AC settings for 9K plus.

markoo · Nov 20, 2010

If your secondary clutch is getting stuck open then you have installed the rktek kit wrong. If you figure out what is wrong in your secondary your rpm issues might change as well.

markoo · Nov 20, 2010

I would guess your spring preload is wrong.

Rush44 · Nov 20, 2010

I have the install instructions. I'm going to pull it apart now and see whats to be found. I'll report back shortly.

Thanks for the help. Big time!

Rush44 · Nov 20, 2010

markoo said:
I would guess your spring preload is wrong.

First off.... anyone else have trouble getting a belt off the primary? Incredibly hard to get that belt under the clutch and wiggle it past the side panel guide.

So, I took the RKT clutch off and found the spring in the clutch to be a green spring. Everything seemed ok until I checked the clutch pressure.... 5-7lbs.... way too loose. We pulled the billet top off the clutch and replaced the green spring with a CPC Red/White. Clutch pressure after that was 20-22lbs which is much better. Since I didn't do the RKT install I'm not sure if all the bushings/spacers got in correctly, as it seems like the inside (motor side) side of the belt was more worn than the outside portion. The previous owner seems to know a good bit about the sled so at this moment I would bet that everything else is installed properly.

I'm thinking that with the nearly non-existent spring pressure on the secondary that the sled was constantly running in high gear. Without the backshift the RPMs would be way down on the climb, as would the track speed. Everywhere else the power wasn't as instant as I expected... I keep thinking like if I was taking off in a car in 2nd or 3rd instead of 1st gear. Sound correct?

Also, check the pictures of the spring alignment below. It SEEMS (although I am not an expert) that the spring leans to one side more than the other. You can see how close the spring is to the rollers... but this might be by design. I don't see how you can mess up the spring install... it goes in the bottom hole and top hole and you crank it down and tighten the billet top. How can you screw that up?

Clutch weights for 5,000 - 7,500 feet....

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